Vagabund Log

Antigua

Antigua

28th January 2014 Tuesday to 6th February 2014 Thursday

Early morning on the 28th Jan we sailed out of Deshaies in Guadeloupe and set our course North for the 50nm trip to Rodney Bay on the island of Antigua. Shiloh and Khaya Moya followed half an hour later. It was a 20 knots ENE wind with long 2,8m swells fortunately more than 12 seconds apart. 

As the water depth started to drop of to over 200m on the fish finder the one reel sounded its alarm. Head sail down heading with main more into the wind and big sea till we slowed down to a steady 2,5 knots. 20 minutes later Zack weighed in a 20,5kg Yellow Fin Tuna. We set the sails again and turned Vagabund to head for Antigua again. The fishing factory's production line was started up: Clean the deck of all blood, cut the skin to be pealed of, removed the four fillets from the fish, cut up fillets into smaller serving size portions, grouped together into meal sizes, vacuum sealed to capture the sea freshness, and a fear portion is quickly cooled down for sashimi. Before the tuna could disappear into the freezer Shiloh flew past us. To catch up we hoist the screecher and only took it down when Holli radio us about a squall coming through. 

 

That evening Shiloh (John, Holli and Devon), Khaya Moya (John and Shirley) and Alleycat (Allan and Marita) were invited to Vagabund for sashimi as well as sheared tuna. The men were enjoying themselves inspecting the lures and trying out the different fishing tackle and harnesses.

 

Facts of Antigua Wikipedia

“Antigua (or, locally) is an island in the West Indies, in the Leeward Islands in the Caribbean region, the main island of the country of Antigua and Barbuda. Antigua means "ancient" in Spanish and was named by Christopher Columbus after an icon in Seville Cathedral, Santa Maria de la Antigua St. Mary the Ancient. It is also known as Wadadli, from the original Amerindian inhabitants, and means approximately "our own". The island's circumference is roughly 87 km and its area281 km2. It’s population was about 69,000 as of July 2006. It is the largest of the Leeward Islands, and the most developed and prosperous due to its upscale tourism industry, offshore banking, internet gambling services and education services, including two medical schools.”

On Wednesday morning (29th Jan) we joined up to clear customs. You have to file an electronic notification beforehand on eSeaClear (this notification can be done at the custom office on arrival). Antigua has joined the eSeaClear system for pre-arrival customs notification. The eSeaClear website can be found at: www.eseaclear.com. The online system is so much easier than completing documents on four sets of carbon paper. On arrival you give them your eSeaClear reference number, they then print out four copies that the captain have to sign and you proceed to immigration and port authorities.

The four SA yachts anchoring close together in Jolly Harbour.

 

That evening our South Africans were all invited to the American boat Yachtsman's Dream (John and Lela). Lela is a gourmet chef and we were all treated with several special dishes.

 

The next morning Holli had reserved a taxi to take all the ladies with Zack (for protection) to the  Epicurean Supermarket. It is a well stocked supermarket with good variety and a good place for stocking up on provisions. Back in Jolly harbour the rest of the men came to great us each one with his own dinghy. A convoy to transport the provisions back to the boat.

 

At 14h00 the three catamarans left for Falmouth Bay where the Big Boat Race will start the next day. 

 

Wikipedia:

English Harbour,in the extreme south of the island, takes its name from the nearby harbour in which the British Royal Navy established its base of operations for the area during the 18th century. English Harbour on the south-eastern coast is famed for its protected shelter during violent storms. It is the site of a restored British colonial naval station called "Nelson's Dockyard" after Captain Horatio Nelson. Nelson's Dockyard with its restored historical buildings and other historical artifacts is from the colonial period of the dockyard.”

English and Falmouth harbour had become the Caribbean's main base for super yachts. 

 

The evening we wandered around English harbour admiring all the different super yachts as well as the big sailing yachts preparing for the regatta over the next 3 days. Later our empty stomachs were filled with lamb shank the preferred chioce on the menu.

 

31st January 2014 Friday.

The Big Boat Race started at 11h30. One of the boats returned back after trying to find its sea legs to repairing something at the top of the mast. Only by watching the small figure of a man being hoisted up the mast do one realize the size of these boats.

We watched the different boats started on different times according to their handicap. We saw spinnakers twisting and another one blown into pieces. After a full day we retired back to our boats to recharge our own batteries for the next day.

 

Saturday everybody kept themselves busy with different tasks. Allan helped Zack fixed our diving compressors carburator. Zack climbed the mast to the top to fix the anchor light.

 

That afternoon we strolled around Nelson's Dockyard to have another look at the water palaces surrounding us. We visited the museum and enjoyed the beautifully restored quarters, houses, hotels, restaurants and small vendor shops. 

 

That evening we celebrated Devon's birthday at Tappers restaurant.

 

Sunday afternoon we rented a taxi to Shirley Heights Lookout. We saw fabulous views over English Harbour.

A steel band entertained us as we enjoyed a barbeque and a beautiful sunset. The music change to more commercial entertainment and a few hours later 4 brother musicians jumps spontaneously onto the stage took over the band for a few songs and played some spectacular music. The crowed was delighted (we still don't know who it was and how famous they are but what we know is that they can play).

 

On Monday morning (3rd February) we set sail to round the main island on the leeward side to the North Eastern side dropping anchor at Great Bird Island. 

 

As we were sailing in a narrow channel between the island and a reef the one reel sounded its alarm again. With the wind, current and limited maneuvering space between the reefs I selected to take the rod. It was a tough fight that latest 20 minutes to get the fish to the leader man hand. As the fish got pulled in it surfaced. We where amazed it was a turtle! The repala got caught on its front flipper. Zack unhooked the repala and we were relieved to see the turtle dive down strongly under the water.

 

Later Zack caught an 11,5kg John Travalley. After weighing we released it back to be caught another day.

 

Round about noon we arrive at Great Bird Island. The whole area is a maze of reefs and shoals. 

 

The dinghies were launched and we explored the island. On top of the hill we could enjoy a panoramic view of the bay and came close to the nesting grounds of the Red-billed Tropicbird. As the day visitors have already left we had the beach for ourselves. Making the most of it we enjoyed a traditional South African “braai” on the beach that night.  

 

Tuesday morning we used our dinghies to explore the ray sanctuary. We passed deserted islands and one of them is Hell's Gate. It has a hole eroded by sea water over hundreds of years leaving a big hole with a thin top Would have rather called it hells bridge.

 

Making our way trough a mine field of coral heads some just below the surface and other that are awash we made our way to a place in the middle of nowhere, only fenced off with floating buoys and two floating pontoons.  

 

The rays are used to being fed by the day visitors on trip boats. As you enter the water they will approach you to see if you have food for them.  The rays gave us special attention and we enjoyed swimming face to face with these majestic underwater gliding creatures. 

 

On our way back we stopped at a beautiful long beach and walked the beach distance to see our boats anchored in the near distance.

 

That evening it was Alleycat's turn to provide dinner. Curried lamb prepared by Allan. 

Wednesday we all sailed back to Jolly Harbour. Zack caught a King Macrell and after anchoring everybody had a piece of fresh fried fish on Vagabund on their way to customs. That evening at Shiloh we all had to say goodbye.  It was sad that after enjoying the togetherness and (rapidly growing close) friendship that the three other boats had to sail North and Vagabund had to turned back South.  The thought of knowing how big the ocean is but how small the sailing community is gave us some convert that we will see its other soon somewhere on the ocean.

Thursday 6th February 

Skyping with our kids were a delight of the day. We were thrilled to hear the latest news of our first grandson to be born soon. A special thanks to technology that made it possible to be close and yet so far. Yet I manage to fell asleep with a smile on my face knowing the latest news of all four my children and grandson to be.

 

 

 

Marriage

Marriage

1985-2014 is 29 years

“Dodi li va-ani lo”:

My beloved is mine and I am his

 

Covenant:

Our marriage is not a contract that can be broken but

a covenant.

 

Dawn of a new era in 2010:

Sharing a dream of continuous travelling upon Vagabund.

Going upon the waters where adventures lead.

 

Dawn of a new era in 2014:

Spoiling grandchildren, playing in the sand …..

Sharing wisdom coming with age with our children….

At the end growing old together… loving you!!!!

I want to be at home when I am old…..with you.

5 January 1985

14 February 2010: Renewing of our vows

 

 

Izak, Heleen & Kyra's visit

Izak, Heleen & Kyra’s visit on Vagabund

16th February to 25th February 2014

Izak, Heleen and Kyra were picked up at Blue Lagoon Marina on the island of St Vincent.

 

Izak, Heleen and Kyra missed the connection flight from Grenada to St Vincent on the 15th February. They only arrived Sunday 16th February late in the afternoon. We were appreciative of our family traveling more than 50 hours to visit us. After dropping of there bags on Vagabund we enjoyed a dinner and a cold one on the Beach deck overlooking the bay.

 

17th February Monday: Tobaco Cays

Sailing downwind to the Cays we could share and enjoy together for the first time our statement that we as business partners have build up over the years. The asymmetrical G2 spinnaker stood proud above us.

The island of Mustique appeared much early and as the sail were set and the wind angle favorable we changed our plans and head further downwind to the Tobaco Cays. The anchor was dropped in the narrow channel between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau. Rays were swimming underneath Vagabund.

 

After a short swim to the beach Kyra enjoyed the fine sand and luke warm water of the Caribbean.

 

18th February Tuesday: Tobaco Cays National Reserve

The next day we moved Vagabund a short distance to a mooring buoy close to the island of Baradel. A buoyed of area indicated the no boating sone where turtles and people could swim together. Kyra was like a dolphin in the water. Diving down to them. Exploring her limits.

 

The water clarity in Tobaco Cays is displaying different colours of turquis.

 

On Baradel island we walked up the hill and saw the Iguanas.Beautiful animals that looked like dinosaurs.

On top of the hill we had a spectacular view over the outer reef of the Tobaco Cays.

 

The afternoon we snorkeled on the reef.

 

Underneath Vagabund we saw a Flying Gunard and

 

soon afterwards a Honeycomb Ray swam past underneath us.

 

19th February 2014 Wednesday: Petit St Vincent

A quick stop over was done at Union Island to visit customs in order to put Izak, Heleen and Kyra on Vagabund's crewlist and to obtained their cruising permit.

 

That evening we anchored in front of Petit St Vincent. We enjoyed a gourmet dinner with our feet in the sand. R4000 later put a dent in our pockets.

 

20th February 2014 Thursday: Mayreau: Salt Whistle Bay

On our way to Mayreau we stopped at the small deserted island Mopion famous for its odd weddings. The island is basically a sand patch in the ocean bearably above the high water mark and surrounded by coral reefs.

 

At Salt Whistle Bay (Mayreau) we dropped our anchor almost on the beach and let the prevailing trade winds blew us off into position. The beach is of gorgeous pure white sand, swaying coconut palmtrees, and warm turquoise waters.

 

The whole day was spend swimming, playing, tanning….

 

21st February 2014 Friday: Mustique

It was nearly a five hour sail to Mustique. Zack tried all the different lures and steered Vagabund twice over the drop off in pursued of a possible bill fish but without any success today.

On our arrival in Mistique a mooring buoy was picked up on the North side of Britannia Bay.

The town was visited to stock up on some groceries. A tortoise greeted us welcome on the grass in front of the grocery store.

 

22nd February 2014 Saturday: Mustique

That same afternoon we managed to go on a tour of the island. This lush tropical island in the Caribbean features villas such as that of 
Mick Jagger, Jerry Hall, David Bowie, Brian Adams, Tommy Hilfiger, Paul Newman and Raquel Welch and many others. Their luxurious private hideaway villa´s are the diamonds on this exquisite Caribbean island.

Life lobster were bought to be prepared for dinner. Kyra helped by handling them with gloves.

That night we enjoyed a lobster barbeque.

 

23rd February 2014 Sunday: Bequia

On Sunday morning we enjoyed snorkeling from Vagabund as the previous nights left overs created a fishing attraction under Vagabund.

 

Midday we left for Bequia. We anchored in front of Princess Margaret Beach on the Island of Bequia.

24th February 2014 Monday: Bequia

After a slow lazy start in the morning we revived ourselves by snorkeled at Devil’s Table.

 

Later on we went to customs to clear Izak, Heleen and Kyra from Vagabund's crewlist.

The rest of the afternoon was spend on the beach. 

Mac’s Pizza provided our dinner. While waiting for our food Kyra still had to do some catch up on school work as the daylight just hold to many other distractions.A last opportunity to enjoy each others company before saying goodbye again.

 

We will especially miss Kyra's excitement and energy on Vagabund. A special thank you for the effort of Izak and Heleen for traveling all this way to visit us. It is much appreciated. Love you all.

 

 

Back to Trinidad

Back to Trinidad

7th February 2014 Friday

The mooring buoy inside Jolly Harbour Marina was dropped of at 6h30. Slowly the land profile of the Island of Antigua faded away in the Northern Horizon. Monserrat was visible in the East and Gaudeloupe gradually raising up in the South to welcome us. On our way we managed to stock up on some fresh fish. 

 

In contrast with our previous visit to Gaudeloupe a strong breeze welcomed us on the leeward side. By 16h00 Vagabund was tuck in close to land on anchor at Pigoen Cove. That night the wind gusted over 30knots.

 

8th February 2014 Saturday

The next day we lifted our anchor and sailed further South to Portsmouth in Dominica. Almost a mile from the anchorage Martin came out to welcome us back with a big smile enquiring if there was anything he can help with. He is a member of the PAYS, a great initiative, the name Providence is painted on the side of his boat.

 

At sunset we saw our first green flash. With a clear horizon when the last part of the suns red reflection disappear into the sea the red reflection turns green for a fraction of a second.

 

9th February 2014 Sunday.

On Sunday Morning we had an early start at 5h45. The same procedure was followed as usual: Lifting of the anchor, turning Vagabund in a southerly heading, set the sails and enjoy another day on the Caribbean sea. The only big difference this time we decided to skip Martinique and head straight for St Lucia (Rodney Bay). It was a long stretch of 125nm and it meant that we will have to sail into the night.

The sea state were choppy and the islands had a big influence on the consistency of the trade winds. Either converging or diverting the wind. To the North of Martinique the wind gusted up to 42 knots. Most of the day was spend reefing in and out and adjusting the sails.

The fishing lures trawled at the back was almost forgotten about when the big 80W Tiagra real set of the alarm for the first time since we are sailing in the Caribbean. The focus were instantaneously changed from sailing to fishing. 

The striped marlin forced us to take off all of the sails and maneuvered Vagabund back to the North in order to maintain a good fighting angle on the fish. The fish was 30 min later in the wireman's hand next to the boat. The fish was released and we were glad to see it swimming strongly away. The fish was estimated at 80 kg.

 

After catching the marlin the sun started free dropping towards the Western ocean and our focus changed back to sailing. At 23h00 and after 17 hours of sailing and fishing we were safely anchored in Rodney Bay.

10th February 2014 Monday

Monday morning was a bit more blue than normal as we had to overcome our desire for more sleep when the alarm went of. The dingy was dropped and we managed to meet up with Island Explorer.  Doug and Ursula greeted us with a smile and made time for some catch up before they set there sails.  We were sailing South and they were heading North. We were happy to see each other again. The few minutes spent together will remain as part of our memories.

 

After clearing out at customs (notification with Sail Clear online) we were ready to leave for the Pitons. Upon arriving at the Pitons the moorings were already full and we had to divert to a mooring just North of the Pitons on the Southern side of Souffiere.

What makes the Pitons special is Gros Piton and Petit Piton standing close to each other raises from the ocean floor in spectacular way almost straight up to dominate the skyline at respectively 705m and 679m heigh above sea level.

 

On approaching the mooring buoy a self appointed beach rope handler swam out to meet us and assist us in picking up the mooring. He then swam back to the beach with our stern line to tie it around a tree. 

 

11th February 2014 Tuesday

On Tuesday we sailed further South to our destination Bequia (Rodney Bay). We had an amazing sail using the screecher from St Lucia to Rodney Bay.  Although we had to motor sail in the lee of the islands to sustain a boat speed of above 7 knots for the lures we average 7,8 knots over the 56 nm with the screecher and a single reef in the main. The wind was 15-22 knots just at the back of the beam and the waves about 1,8 m with an interval of 9 seconds.

 

At the lee of St Vincent dolphins came and entertained us for a while.

 

12th to 13th February 2014 In Bequia on anchor

Cleaning, cleaning, cleaning…

After all the cleaning I spoilt myself to a little pampering. My big toes were dressed with little dolphins and I pasted small stars on my ring finger.

 

14th February 2014

It was our wedding anniversary. Today we were married for 29 years. In 2010 we renewed our vows.

Dodi li va-ani lo”:

My beloved is mine and I am his

 

Covenant:

Our marriage is not a contract that can be broken but

a covenant.

 

Dawn of a new era in 2010:

Sharing a dream of continuous travelling upon Vagabund.

Going upon the waters where adventures lead.

Dawn of a new era in 2014:

Spoiling grandchildren, playing in the sand …..

Sharing wisdom coming with age with our children….

 

At the end growing old together… loving you!!!!

I want to be at home when I am old…..with you.

 

Photo of us getting married in 1985.

 

Midday we explored the island using a taxi. Took beautiful photos from the top of the mountain overlooking the bay.

 

We drove over to the windward side of the island.

 

We also went to a turtle sanctuary.  The Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary was founded in 1995.  The hatchlings were attended to in plastic tubs. The hope is to protect the “babies” until old enough to fend for themselves in the wild ocean.These turtles were 4 or so weeks old.

 

They were kept until 5 years old, when they were returned to the beaches where they hatched. By 2006 over 800 had been returned to sea.

 

The island has an active whaling station in a low-key and traditional way. By IWC agreement, local whalers can take four whales a year. The whaling season is from February to April. At this time of the year humpback whales leave the northern feeding grounds and head south to mate and bear young. The whalers are in an open sailing boat, using hand-thrown harpoons. On the rare occasion that they make a kill, the hunters tow the whale to Semplers Cay for butchering. At the boat museum the open sailing boat with the harpoons were exhibited.

 

The evening Zack took me out to dinner at Fig Tree Restaurant.

 

15th February 2014

The day of our visiting friends we sailed over to St Vincent (Blue lagoon). Although only a short sail the sea between the two islands are renowned for its turbulent sea. We experienced big waves of 3,5 to 4 m with a rip current for about an hour. Blue Lagoon Marina's seaward side is surrounded by Corel reefs with only two narrow entries. The charts indicate these access points wrong and it is necessary to call the club to send out a dingy to escort your boat through the narrow entrances. Relieved we picked up a mooring inside Blue Lagoon Marina with the help of Mike.

Izak, Heleen and Kyra missed the connection flight from Grenada to St Vincent.

16th February 2014

The next day we went by bus to the local supermarket to stock up on some groceries.

 

Izak, Heleen and Kyra only arrived late on Sunday afternoon via Barbados. Traveling for more than 50 hours to visit us! We are so great full. That evening we enjoyed a supper at the club on the deck overlooking the bay.

Sunday 16th February to Monday 24th February is published under

Izak, Heleen and Kyra's visit.

............

............ have a look under Izak, Heleen and Kyra's visit

 

25th February 2014: A Few Days Later

We had a lazy day on Princess Magaret Beach (Bequia).  Suntanning and playing in the lukewarm water. The afternoon we went to customs to clear out.

 

The evening our Brazilian friends Luiz, Mariaane and Rodrigo joined us for dinner on Vagabund. It was with a tear in the eye that we said goodbye for this season...

 

26th February 2014

After a full days work from 6am to 6 pm we managed to sail from Bequia to Grenada. We had to sail to Grenada  to pick up our next guests. It was an enjoyable sail with the screecher and main generating additional apparent windspeed in a following sea. So much easier in a following sea.

We were blessed with double bill fish adventure catching a White Marlin as well as a Sailfish.

Zack caught a White Marlin and after inspecting it up close to confirm its White Marlin status, released it again. .

Our favorite purple lure responsible for more than 80% of our fishing was destroyed in the process.

 

The adventure was rounded off after I had managed to caught a Sailfish. The fish was still aggressive next to the boat and our wireman had to play it carefully. Unfortunately the fish fractured its bill and we had to kill it. After peeling of the skin we discovered foreign growth all over the body with tentacles intruding the muscle mass. The carcass was dropped back into the sea.

 

27th February to 2nd March 2014

Keeping ourselves busy with chores. Stock up Vagabund for the next group of visitors. Looking forward to see Piet and Jenni.

2nd March to 10th March 2014 will be published under Piet and Jenni’s visit. Watch this space……