Bahamas: Mayaguana

5^th March to 7^th March 2015

At sunrise of the 5^th March (Thursday) we left from Provo (Turks & Caicos) for Mayaguana. Our first Bahamain island.

Facts of Bahamas:

“The Bahama Islands are a low-lying limestone archipelago in the North Atlantic southeast of Florida and north of Cuba, covering 150,000 square miles of tropical sea with approximately 5,000 square miles of land. Of the 700 islands and many more rocks and small cays, some 25 are inhabited with communities. Many more have private homes and some whole islands are privately owned.

Very deep off-sounding trenches and shallow banks make the area an interesting cruising ground. Much navigation is by "eyeball" as, in good light and using polaroid sunglasses, depth is easily read by colour through the crystal clear water. Several new publications are now available to assist with safe navigation. Coral reefs provide excellent snorkelling and diving.

Most islands and cays are low lying and flat, with ridges that rise no more than 15 to 20 meters (50-60 feet) above sea level. Most are covered in dense scrubby bush amidst and surrounded by shallow reefs and sandbars, forming mangrove forests in between. The highest point of the Bahamas can be found on the eastern side on Cat Island, Mount Alvernia or Como Hill with an altitude of 63 m (210 ft).

In the last decade, since a change of government in 1992, much development has occurred throughout The Bahamas, bringing better facilities to many islands and the advent of GPS has encouraged many more yachts to visit the area.

The Bahamian society is a laid-back one. Enjoying life is the most important rule. On Sundays they go to church and the overwhelming majority of Bahamian people are Christians”

Map of Mayguana:

Facts of Mayaguana

“Of all the Out Islands, this is the most "out" as well as the least developed and visited. It lies half way between South Florida and Puerto Rico, approximately 450 nautical miles southeast of Palm Beach. This eastern-most island boasts large stands of lignum vitae and other hardwoods. There are three settlements; Pirate's Well on the north coast, Abraham's Bay on the south coast, and Betsy's Bay on the west coast.”

Just before three in the afternoon we set anchor in Abram Bay. It was a challenge navigating in shallow water to the dinghy dock. At the dock Scully was waiting for us. Zack arranged with him to be his guide for bone fishing on Saturday.

At customs they were out of cruising permit books and we had to return when the plane fly in. That will only happen on Friday.

Mayaguana island is an outpost island. The streets were gravel roads and look like a few era’s back. It had some resemblance of the “Kaprivie”. Regie owned the local supermarket and restaurant. We managed to get a few tomatos, apples and fresh baked coconut bread.

He served us fried chicken and fries and water at the restaurant that was part of his home. A real local meal with friendly people coming to visit Regie and then only realize he is in business mode with some guests.


Friday we snorkel at the coral reef. Zack caught our dinner, a big lobster. We didn't see that the anchor rope tied our dinghy got loose and it was blown away in a 15 to 20 knot wind. Zack managed to swim and caught up to the dingy after about a kilometer. On Vagabund we seldom have a dull moment.

After we got our cruising permit we carefully navigate out of the East entrance, sailed around the island to the Northwest point of the island just outside Pirate Well Cut. We anchored in four meters of water and enjoyed being the only boat in the anchorage.

At 8h30 Saturday morning Scully was waiting for us at the beach inside Pirates Well Cut. Zack and Scully waded the whole bay looking for Bonefish.

The next morning we used the dingy to access pirates well and meted up with Scully to walk the bay in search of bonefish or permit. At Blackwood Point we saw a flock of residential flamingoes were at the reef.

Bahamas: Long Island

8^th March to 12^th March 2015

Three o’clock Sunday morning (8^th March) we started our sail to Long Island with an overnight stop at Crooked Island. A passage of 75 nm to Crooked Island.

Downwind with the G2 was making this trip an easy sail.

This trip was a fishing festival. Two Dorado’s strike at the same time. Double up. Zack brought the one in while I reeled in the other one. A bull and a female caught by the Captain and First Mate.

A Barracuda found one of the lures interesting. After lunch a white marlin took a lure. Zack decided it was my turn to bring her in. It was a bit of a scramble to get the other three lines in as well as the teasers. We then had to slow down Vagabund by bringing the A-Symmetrical spinnaker down. The fish gave a good fight. I did not want to hold her, so Zack volunteered to give her a hug before releasing her to grow bigger.

Late in the afternoon we rounded the NW point of Crooked Island and could enjoy a nice few of the Light House. We managed to anchor about half a mile from the town on the narrow sand ledge close to the drop off. Right in front of our boat was a funny white dome shaped holiday house.

Zack cleaned the Dorado at the back of Vagabund. With the carcass of the first Dorado two sharks of different species came to feed. With the second carcass three sharks appeared in minutes out of nowhere to tear it apart. It can only be assumed that the smell of blood spread so much better because we where so close to the drop off. I was glade I have already dived the anchor a half an hour earlier. The barracudas underneath Vagabund made sure that the rest of the cut off where swooped up long before the sharks could make their appearance again.

Monday morning 9^th March we departed to Clarence town (Long Island).

“Long Island, like Eleuthera and Cat Island, has an ocean coastline to the east, which offers deep-sea fishing (1000m water depth is less than three nm from shore) and one or two anchorages in suitable weather, including Clarence Town. The west side offers shallow water cruising with interesting settlements, creeks and bays to explore.”

The anchorage behind Strachan Cay had less roll than the rest of the anchorage.

Scattered coral and lots of grass and we had to watch out for the submerged cables. The anchorage was beautiful and we were comfortable tucked inside with the Easterly’s gusting up to 25 kts.

Early morning kayaking in cristal clear water. The tidal creek on the leeward side of Clem Cay offered deep 10m deep blue water with presitne beaches.

Tuesday afternoon we explored Clarence Town. The view from the white church in town was awesome.

We rented a car for Wednesday and went exploring with our friends of Del-Max.

First was Dean's Blue Hole.

"Dean's Blue Hole is the world's deepest known salt water blue hole with an entrance below the sea level. It plunges 202 metres in a bay west of Clarence Town on Long Island, Bahamas." The deep blue color is caused by the high transparency of water and bright white carbonate sand.

We scuba dived the hole. Dropped of to 30 meters along the free-divers platform and depth lines. At this depth the hole started to open up. The torch was switched on as the light faded away. Soon it felled like a cave dive. The sand falls constantly in on the side of the walls creating a unique sand-water fall effect.  We had to watch our bottom time because of the depth of the dive. Zack saw a Tarpon at 30m and I had to stop him from swimming deeper down with it.

Because of the top of the hole being under sea level plastic bags floating in the ocean somehow manage to get trap inside the hole. They are all over in the water and against the sidewalls of the hole. We collected them as we dived. There were a limited amount of reef fishes. At six-meter decompression depth there is good caves, overhangs and fish scenery.

Later the day we went to the Hamilton’s caves. Our guide Leonard Cartwright was driving in front of us in a school bus. It is owned and operated for generations by the Cartwright family.

The Hamilto's caves have many passages, which are a least 50 feet wide with a ceiling of 10 feet wide. It is one of the largest in the Bahamas. The Lucayan Indians lived here about 500 AD and many Lucayan artifacts were discovered in 1936.  Bats of different species hang out in the caves.

Thursday 12^th March we sailed along the windward side of Long Island to Calabash Bay. It was an uncomfortable sail with the waves on the beam. A big blue torques bay that looks like a big swimming pool.

Bahamas: Great Exuma - Georgetown

 14^th March to 17^th March 2015

Georgetown:Facts

“The capital of the Exumas is Georgetown. It is located on Great Exuma Island. The Exumas are a chain of islands that stretch to about 100 miles long. The Tropic of Cancer runs directly through Georgetown and approximately 900 people live in this seaport, a favorite spot for yachters. Georgetown has an intriguing past. Pirates used Georgetown’s deepwater harbor during the 17th century and the “plantation aristocracy” from Virginia and North and South Carolina settled here in the 18th century. Elizabeth Harbor became a refitting base for British vessels and the U.S. Navy used the port during World War II.”

The 14^th March 2015 we sail from Long Island to Great Exuma. We anchored close to Panache and Kaya Moya at Monument Bay.

Sundowners at Chat n Chill beach.

Beach Church

“Kaalvoet in die sand”

Yachties together to praise the Lord

Getting together at the beach of Monument Bay

Looking over the bay from the monument on the hill. Steep climb, but the views are spectacular and worth the effort. The Monument is sometimes called the Salt Beacon because it was used (when lit) to guide cargo ships into Elizabeth Harbour to George Town for purposes of picking up salt.  The salt was mined at various places on Great and Little Exuma.

Watching the sun set while John blows the conch. It is a modern day ritual to blow the “Pū” (conch) to say goodbye at sunset to end the day and to say Mahalo (thanks).

“Pū, pronounced 'poo' is the Hawaiian Name for Conch Shell. A gift from the Ocean, the Pū comes out of the life giving waters with a sound that flows across the 'Aina ( land ).

The blowing of the Pu, a deep part of the Hawaiian culture, has multiple uses and communicates various meanings in both Religious and secular traditions.

A person once asked Rev. Alalani, “how do you always blow the conch shell pure and right every time”?

She replied, ”because I let God blow through me.” “I blow for the cause and to open the Heavens to come and Bless. I give thanks. I do not blow the Pū alone”.”

Vagabund's home for the time we are going to be in the USA: 
Gaviota Bay in Exuma Bahamas. We are looking forward to see André, Zandia and Zandré.We flied out to Florida on the 17th March 2015.

27^th March to 31^st March 2015

Money well spend in Florida on boat parts. Zack have replaced the prop on the starboard side that was damaged by a picking up a rope in the water. The electric toilet is working again. Our watermaker o- rings have been replaced to stop the leaking. Now we are nearly ready to start going North in the Exuma Cays.Stocking up, filling with diesel, propane gas and laundry being done.

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