St Maartin
Published on Wednesday, 08 April 2015 18:03 | | 
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| Hits: 5827
| | Hits: 5827Passage to St Maartin and St Maartin
Thursday 29th January 2015 to Sunday 15th February 2015
We have enjoyed having Vagabund on the water again. Swinging around the anchor in Scotland Bay being only dictated by wind and current again. Early the next morning we lift the anchor and rounded the point to enter the Caribbean Sea through the “bocce”.
We set our sails and pointed her North, we were on our way to Saint Martin.The dolphins came to greet us and welcome us back on the sea. A prayer was made giving thanks to the Lord for this opportunity and asking for wisdom and protection for the sailings season in front of us. We are grateful for the friends and family that could share with us her presence, and especially those that are supporting us regardless with their prayers. Knowing that we are not alone.
Our adventure started of with a bang. Both of us was enjoying ourselves as Vagabund settled into a rhythmic routine as we sailed over the swells. Zack was thrilled just to have a fishing line back in the water again. The first day we caught two tunas and a wahoo. The spare fridge spaces were quickly filled up with fresh fish.
Day two was a day of great challenges: First Zack had to go up the mast to untangle the main halyard sheet from the radar. Just after putting the screecher up the halyard came loose on the end of its splicing knot. We lost the screecher in the sea. With the sail in the water it brought Vagabund almost to a standstill in 22 knots of wind. The tension rope of the screecher was wrapped around the rudder.
Zack had to dive several times to untangle the shredded sail. After four hours we were exhausted but the sail was on board Vagabund. It was ripped into pieces and the bowsprit was bended!!
Day three: A sailfish on the reel. Our supper expectations immediately turned into an environmental protection program. We did not gaff the sailfish and released it safely back into the ocean. This was our first billfish for 2015.
The number of billfish caught on Vagabund was now pushed up to 15. The species count remained at 8 different species of billfish.
On Saturday afternoon the 31st January we arrived in the French Island of St Barthelemy and decided to drop the hook and rest for the weekend.
It’s a quaint town with plenty of (expensive) shops. The 2 to 3 hours launch brake took some getting use to. Most restaurants open only at 18:00 h and stayed open till almost day brake. Clearing in and out was made easy with a computerized system in the Captains office.
Monday morning early (2nd February 2015) we departed to Saint Martin. A 25 kts down wind sail with a following sea speeded us to Saint Martin in less than two hours. At times we were surfing the swells at up to15 kts.
“Saint Martin Island is divided in two territories with the French side on the North and the Dutch side on the South. The Island has a big lagoon that can be entered through two alternative entrances. One on the French side and one on the Dutch side. Both these entrances are obstructed with bridges that only opens on certain specific times. The French entrance is uncomfortably narrow compared to the Dutch side that can accommodate the super Yachts. As South African citizens we require Visas for the Dutch side but not for the French side. You enter the Dutch side motor through two bridges and anchor on the French side to avoid the bridge cost and expensive anchoring fees.”
In time for the bridges. You must be close to the bridge before the time of opening for the operator to know you wish to go through. We entered Simpson Bay Lagoon through The Simpson Bay Bridge.
Causeway Bridge opens 15 min later, to give you time to reach the bridge after entering. We crossed over to the French side of the lagoon by passing through the Causeway Swing Bridge. When open, the bridges stop the flow of traffic for several minutes. If you cleared in at the Dutch side you will be paying for the bridges as well as anchoring fee that can easily total up to $80.00. If you cleared in at the French side you only have to pay a once off fee of 5 Euros.
We anchored in the NE side of Simpson Bay Lagoon at Nettle Bay. We meet up with our good South African friends on Ostler and dropped our anchor close by. Jaco, Judith and their kids Justin and Jordin immediately came over to welcome us. The rest of our time in St Martin we spend many happy hours together catching up and sharing all sorts of news. Jaco lend Zack a helpful hand with the repairs to be done. We had to spend two weeks in St Martin waiting for the repairs on the screecher and bowsprit.
St Maartin info
“Saint Martin (French: Saint-Martin; Dutch: Sint Maarten) is an island in the northeast Caribbean, approximately 300 km (190 mi) east of Puerto Rico.
On January 1, 2009, the population of the entire island was 77,741 inhabitants, with 40,917 living on the Dutch side and 36,824 on the French side. The main cities are Philipsburg (Dutch side) and Marigot (French side). The Dutch side is more heavily populated.
Saint Martin has a land area of 87 km2, 53 km2 of which is under the sovereignty of Franceand 34 km² under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. This is the only land border shared by these two countries anywhere on Earth.
Border division
On March 23, 1648, France and the Dutch Republic agreed to divide the island between their two territories, with the signing of the Treaty of Concordia.
Folklore surrounds the history of the once ever-changing border division between St. Martin and Sint Maarten, and a popular story among locals narrates that "to divide the island into two sections, [in 1648] the inhabitants were told to choose two walkers, one chosen by the French-dominated community and the other one by the Dutch-dominated community, who were put back to back in one extreme of the island, making them walk in opposite directions while stuck to the littoral line, and not allowing them to run. The point where they eventually met was set as the other extreme of the island, and the subsequently created line was chosen as the frontier, dividing Saint-Martin from Sint Maarten. Seemingly, the French walker had walked more than his Dutch counterpart (each one earned his land, respectively, 54 km² and 32 km²). As the first man chose wine as his stimulant prior to the race, while the latter chose Jenever (Dutch Gin), the difference between such beverages' lightness was said to be the cause of the territorial differences by French locals, while Dutch locals tended to blame the French walker for running.”
The anchorage at Nettle Bay was calm and save excepted for guided yet ski tours that somehow always ended in rookies driving the jet ski’s flat out back to the base past our anchorage. The water was clear and flat for kayaking. Long dingy rides were required to visit the Dutch chandler shops and one could get wet in the chop. The French side had the most interesting restaurants.
Beautiful sunsets
Sunday we visited the beach at the Princess Juliana International Airport. This beach is on the flight path of the inbound flights. Planes come in at a low angle to land.
Sint Maarten has one of the most photographed and most challenging runways in the world. Thousands of videos can be seen on YouTube and other social media sites, usually taken by tourists with shaky hand-held cameras as the airliners fly inches above their heads. St Maartin is one if 3 airports that offer access close to the runway.
We have lots of fun experience the blasts of the KLM 747 and almost touching the wheels. My sunglasses was blown off and I was not even near the full blast. Zack is standing on the far side holding onto the fence. Hold on for dear life as you get sandblasted and struggle to breathe with all the exhaust fumes when the afterburners is on full throttle
Almost touching the wheels
Some even came dressed for the occasion.
Having a drink and watch the big birds touching down
At the end of two weeks our screecher was repaired as well as the bowsprit. The French side of the island has beautiful shops and we enjoyed the gourmet food. The French side is great for tourism but for boat stuff head to Simpson Bay on the Dutch side.
The Suzuki 4 stroke 9,9 Hp outboard that give us so many problems was swopped for a 2 stroke Yamaha 15 Hp. I saved Zack from stripping the carburetor every two weeks and also possibly the Suzuki from being dumped into some scrap yard by insisting on a $500 pay in swop on a twelve year old 15 Hp Yamaha two stroke.
The difference is appropriate technology. Al though the emission standards are important for us the four stroke motors do not work on operating small outboards in a sailing environment. The emission standards on the smaller four strokes forces the manufacturers to use carburetor yet’s that clog so easy especially on the fuel that is available. We tried for five years and see so many others struggling with there four strokes. It is a far bigger safety risk in the strong currents and distances we travel with our dinghies to not have a reliable outboard.
Saturday 14th February
Our 30th Wedding anniversary. Zack spoiled me with a beautiful white dress, a lunch at a French restaurant and a massage at a spa. I think I got a very romantic husband. I am looking forward to our next 30 years. He is the best!!!!............
Words from Zack:
“Special thanks to my wife for 30 years of marriage.
Magda jy is nie net my beste pel nie, maar ook my geesgenoot.
Dankie Liewe Vader vir die voorreg om my lewe met so ‘n spesiale vrou te deel.”
Sunday 15th February 2015
Our last special time together with Osler was spend over lunch. The last few hours of good times together. We enjoyed having Jaco, Judith, Justin and Jordan on board. They are very special to us. Time to say good buy and trust to see each other soon again somewhere on the oceans.
We lift anchor to be in time for the opening of the Causeway Bridge at 15h15.
On our way to the Simpson Bridge we picked up a rope around the starboard propeller. With one engine Zack anchored and had to dive again to cut the rope loose. We were just in time for the opening of the Simpson Bridge at the 16h00 for the outbound vessels.
Setting sail into the sunset towards BVI.
BVI
Published on Wednesday, 08 April 2015 18:04 | | | | Hits: 5417
| | Hits: 5417Passage to BVI and BVI
15th February to 18th February 2015
Sunday 15th February 2015
After leaving St Martin we set our sails and were spoiled once again with a beautiful sunset on our way to Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. It was a calm night and with the light breeze we motor sailed with the mainsail and genoa.
Facts of BVI:
“The Virgin Islands are an archipelago comprising hundreds of small islands and cays situated between Puerto Rico and the Leeward Islands. The eastern half is a British dependency, while the western part is US territory.
The largest British islands are Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost van Dyke and Anegada, the latter being slightly set apart, while the former are grouped together around the Sir Francis Drake channel.
The Virgins are perfect cruising ground - scenically beautiful, with countless bays, coves and anchorages, the waters sheltered from the strong trade winds and ocean swells.
The British Virgins are now the largest bareboat charter centre in the world. For this reason they are often less attractive to the long-distance cruising sailors, who prefer the less crowded islands of the Caribbean.
Tortola (Spanish for Turtle Dove) is a lush mountainous island. Crowning Tortola is Sage Mountain National Park, a semi-rain forest which, at 1710 feet, is the tallest peak in the islands. It is also the vibrant hub of the financial and government sectors with Road Town "The Small Town with a Big Heart" as its capital.”
Monday 16th February 2015
Early the morning we arrived in Gun Creek Bay of Virgin Gorda. With only one boat in the bay there was plenty room to anchor and visit customs and immigration. We tied our dinghy on theleft side of the government dock just beyond where the local ferries land.
With the paperwork in hand and after clearing into BVI we motor across the bay to Sabor Rock and anchored close to the beach. It was pouring down with rain and we spend a lazy day on Vagabund, recovering from the previous night sailing.
At Saba Rock we enjoyed sundowners and there free Wi-Fi. A thrill was watching the feeding of tarpon at 5pm. They were even jumping to catch the piece of fish before they could touch the water. Aggressively competing among each other. The feeder would hold onto a piece of fish while a tarpon will grab the fish engulfing his whole hand.
Tuesday 17th February 2015
Early the next morning we picked up the anchor and set sail to the Southwest side of Virgin Gorda to “The Baths”. The swells were big and on arrival at The Baths red flags were raised on the beaches as the breaking waves made it impossible to safely land a dinghy on the beach. We could only take photos while we motored past. The beauty has to be saved to be explored another day.
Diverting to Tortala Island and picking up a mooring in Trellis Bay. It is a charming little bay close to the international airport. It is just a five minute walk from the dingy dock to Beef Island Airport.
With a taxi we arrived at the B&F Medical Complex, trying to use a South African prescription at the pharmacy but I have to see the doctor to issue the same prescription. The friendly nurse at the clinic offer to took us to Road Town in her lunch brake. At Digicel we bought a data card and walked back to the Pasea district where we stock up on fruit and red meat at Cash and Carry and Rite Way. The prices even better than in Trinidad that is the cheapest in the Caribbean. On our must do list were lamb chops for a barbeque!!!
At sunset we arrived at Josh van Dyke Little Harbor with only one mooring ball open. Without a pendant on the mooring ball Zack lost our boat hook. After lassoing the mooring ball we were finely safely moored. The mooring ball was $30/night to be paid at Harris, but we moored for free after Zack convinced them that they owed us a night free for his lost boot hook because the mooring ball was not equipped with a pendant.
Zack gets a hair cut from me.
Wednesday 18th February 2015
The wind was still blowing at 20 knots and our early kayaking was a challenge. With our 15Hp Yamaha on our dinghy we motored over to the next bay at Great harbor to clear out at customs. With all the boats in the bay there were a lively vibe in the air.
At Rudy’s supermarket we found biltong and chutney imported from South Africa. It was not cheap but if you do not have any then you pay what they ask.
We ate lunch at Foxy’s – a cross between a restaurant and a massive waterside food stand. It was a long ride back with the dinghy beating into a 20knot wind. While trying to unhook our mooring line and extra safety line to the concrete plinth the mooring line attaching Vagabund slipped loose. Zack was still in the dinghy. I had to scramble to switch on the motors to keep us of the rocks on a close lee shore. Never a dull moment on a sailing vessel.
The time in the BVI’s was more a quick reconnaissance type visit and we would like to return again someday to spend more time exploring the islands.
We set sail to St John in the USVI.
USVI
Published on Wednesday, 08 April 2015 18:05 | | | | Hits: 5181
| | Hits: 5181USVI
18th February to 20th February 2015
Wednesday 18th February 2015
After lunch and the escapade of the mooring ball we had a short sail to St John in the USVI.
At the Northwest side of St John you have to sail through the small gap between St John Island and Lovango Cay. The current where ripping through the gap.
We anchored in Cruz Bay in the space indicated on our charts as a short-term place to anchor. Three hours max and you must make sure you do not swing back into the channel. This gives you dinghy access to the customs. US are very formal and not laid back like most Caribbean islands.
With the wind on our nose we headed East on the Southern side of St Johns Island to Great Lameshur Bay. Park Service moorings were available and anchoring was prohibited. The mooring fee of $15 per night had to be deposited in an honesty box onshore by the dinghy dock by putting the money into an envelope. We arrived just before sunset, picked up a mooring ball and settled in for the night.
The US Virgin Islands have three main islands, St Thomas, St John and St Croix. Most of the other 65 islands are uninhabited. As a US Unincorporated Territory, the islanders are US citizens, although unable to vote in federal elections.
Thursday 19th February 2015
We stayed here for the day. Exploring the bay with our kayak early morning with snorkeling. The water was clear and we saw turtles swimming by. While Zack was busy filling our diving cylinders I did two loads of washing. After lunch we scuba dived the SE corner of the bay. Some corals, sponges and ferns with small coral fish swimming among them.
Late afternoon we set sail for Fish Bay.
Friday 20th February 2015
On our way to St Thomas harbour we popped into Jersey Bay. On the Navionics map as well as on Garmin map with Active Captain you have to approach the channel like you’re entering the bay and divert to port before the channel to anchor in 6-10’. Upon diverting a boat coming out blow his horn and waving arms at us. We did divert back into the channel and decided to go back to anchor. Again another boat was shouting that there is no anchoring permitted in the dedicated position on the charts and if you do anchor you can get fined for a $1000. We tried to anchor inside the anchorage and found it to be narrow, shallow and vary uncomfortably over crowded. We decided to not drop anchor but rather seek another more friendly anchorage.
We sailed further West and anchored at Kings Wharf East in Charlotte Amalie Harbor overlooking a big cruise ship.
We watched the sea planes landing and take off close by. It was great holding with the dinghy dock behind the Coast Guard station.
For only $1 per person we took the Safari taxi to the Ferry terminal where Customs were. We only then found out that you do not need to clear out of the USVI to go to Puerto Rico but you do need to clear into Puerto Rico. We jumped onto another safari taxi to Crown Bay Marina. The marina had several businesses on site including a chandler, AT&T and grocery store that we used. Now we had a data card with 4G for the USA. Back in the main road we discovered that the Safari Taxis were running in only one direction with the result that we were left with a long walk back to the waterfront.
At Greenhouse Restaurant our dinner were lobster on their special for $19, including two sides. Overlooking the harbour was a perfect way of spending the evening and ending our visit to the USVI.
Puerto Rico
Published on Wednesday, 08 April 2015 18:06 | | | | Hits: 5475
| | Hits: 5475Passage to Puerto Rico and Puerto Rico
21st February to 23rd February 2015
Facts of Puerto Rico:
“Northernmost, within the eastern Caribbean, and several times larger than its southerly island neighbours, Puerto Rico’s sophistication as a US Commonwealth makes it stand out in terms of value. Puerto Rico is a natural stepping off point to/from North America and Europe, thus known as the Passage Islands.
The Spanish Virgin Islands (which are part of the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico), include the islands of Vieques and Culebra, which are less than 15 nautical miles from the USVI. Other beautiful uninhabited islands dot Puerto Rico’s west, south and east coasts.
Lying north of Vieques (the other island in the group known as the Spanish Virgin Islands), Culebra lies equidistant between the main island of Puerto Rico and western-most island of the British Virgin Islands, Charlotte Amalie.
Culebra is a popular weekend tourist destination, especially known for its crystal clear water. Ensenada Honda is very well protected by its reef, and is about a mile and a half long. It has several quiet coves with a reasonable depth of water and good holding.
The island of Vieques (part of the Spanish Virgin Islands) is still relatively undeveloped and many think it represents the Caribbean of 30 years ago. For 50 years it was under the control of the US Navy and so was not developed as were the other islands. There are two small towns; Isabel (where the ferries dock), and Esperanza' The latter being an attractive beach front village.There are many beautiful anchorages and dive spots, with crystal clear water and pristine white sand beaches.”
Saturday 21 February 2015
It was an easy downwind sail to Culebra with the G2.
Our Captain caught two Barracudas but he let them go because they may have Ciguatera. We did not want to take a change.
Just after anchoring in Esenada Honda Bay of island Culebra our VHF had a familiar voice on it. Island Explorer with Dough and Ursula were anchored about 100 meters from us.
Our Italian friends from Gemm gave us a lift to customs at the airport in their rental golf cart.
After the formalities we spend the afternoon on Island Explorer catching up on each other stories from the last time we had seen each other.
Sunday 22 February 2015
Early the morning Island Explorer left for Ilsa de Vieques. We picked up a mooring at Ensenada Dakity and snorkeled with our Italian friends. There was not much to see and and after lunch we set sail to catch up with Island Explorer.
With the air filled with rain clouds we were in for a rough sail. With 30 knots of wind and the swells on the beam, waves were braking over the bow of Vagabund. We were glad to anchor in the calm bay of Enesanda Sun Bay close to Island Explorer.
A special evening together with our SA friends were spend upon having dinner together on Vagabund.
Monday 23 February 2015
It was a perfect morning with the weather that was calming down.
After four hours of motor sailing we anchored in Fajardo (Bay in the Northeast of Puerto Rico) to clear out, visit West Marine and Wal-Mart. We left our dinghy at Villa Marine. They do not charge anything to tie up your dinghy and at the office even assisted in phoning for a taxi. The taxi was somewhat different to what we where used to. You pay $50 and have a chauffeur for the afternoon. Opening doors and double park as you go shopping. We visited customs, then West Marine, Wal-Mart and back to the marina.
Sunset from our anchoring.
