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Bracuhy to Buzios

Published on Monday, 10 June 2013 14:25 | Written by Zack & Magda van den Berg |

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Bracuhy to Buzios

28th May 2013 to 8th June 2013

Piet gave us a lift to the airport as he also had an early morning flight. The 11-hour flight was spend enjoying different movies. Due to a later departure and unfavorable Jet Stream our flight arrived an hour later than scheduled in Sao Paulo. This caused us to miss our connection flight to Rio de Janeiro. Fortunately we managed to get onto the next flight with a little bit of more complications:

The bulk of our luggage were not clothing but varying from fishing tackle accessories, boat spares to the nice luxury food items not freely available in Brazil. We were carefully loaded to the maximum for an international flight on each bag. Our four-bag total came to a hefty 88 kg without hand luggage (computer bags, ipads and an additional camera bag) and off course Zack had to purchase 2 off Johnny Walker Black Labels as additional carry on luggage because it was tax free and he reckoned he had a few fingers to spare. Keeping al our stuff together was like trying to manage a kinder garden class in a public place. Once our baggage where stack piled (with good balancing tricks and only doing gentle movements) we literally had to move a mountain every time we moved from point A to B.

Missing our connection flight became an extra expensive exercise when our connection flight weight limit were only 40 kg max for the two of us together!

We only landed 21h30 instead of 19h00 in Rio and waited an additional hour for our luggage. We where relieved when we finally emerged from the terminal and found Manoel still patiently waited for us. He taxied us the final 200 km stretch to Bracuhy. It was raining and at one stage we were only doing 40km/h. We arrive at 2h00 the morning. A long trip but safely back home on Vagabund. The following morning we unpacked al our luggage and tried to remember where we have stored away certain things on Vagabund.

We had a warm welcome by our dear friends Teresa and Assis welcoming us back in Bracuhy. Teresa looked after our boat when we were in South Africa. It was so comforting knowing that somebody was caring daily over Vagabund. Everything was in tiptop condition when we returned. She obviously, although she refused to admit, did some cleaning as well. Thank you Teresa and Assis.

We met Silvio and Lilian of Yacht Matajusi. He is the organizer and sponsor of the BR rally group (Brazil Rally Group). We joined up with 20 other foreign boats and after he handed us our BRally flag, hats and sticker we were officially part of the BRally group.

We also had the privilege to meet some new British arrivals on there boat Lynn Rival. Paul and Rachel Chandler shared with us their horrific experience of being abducted in Seychelles and held hostage in Somalia by pirates for more than a year. They still sail the same yacht with and we inspected the gun hole through the boom. One can learn so much from them. They are forever thankful for surviving their ordeal, not overcame by fear, they are still living their dream by sailing the not beaten track of the oceans.

Another eye opener for us was that they were abducted in October 2009 a one-day sail East of the Port Victoria (Seychelles capital and the main Island Mahe). Still vary much inside Seychelles waters and not in Somalia waters as what was initially reported to avoid panic under tourist visiting Seychelles. We chartered a catamaran in Feb 2010 in Seychelles and enjoyed good fishing North of the outer Islands, a two to three day sail, totally unaware of the close proximity of the pirate attack.

Late afternoon on our first day back on Vagabund we cycled outside the marina to the local market to get some fresh fruit and vegetables. While crossing a narrow bridge I had an accident leading to three hospitals and good medical care. You can read my Testimony about my “Brazilian Scar” on the Top Menu: Magda Spiritual.

We decided to spend the next seven days in Bracuhy for me to recover. Zack spend most of his days preparing the different navigation systems for our trip sailing north. With our previous visit to Bracuhy we met Ivan and Igle. He is a very experienced sailor and his notes were previously used by several rally’s going up North. Ivan has provided Zack with valuable information and waypoints for our trip. Ivan tips is on “Sailing the Brazilian Coast” is on the Top Menu: Voyage.

Friday the 31st Theresa and Assis picked Zack up at 9h00 to go through to Angra to Receita Féderal (Customs). Teresa is again going to act as interpreter. During our return to South Africa, Bracuhy Marina accepts the responsibility of the yacht. When you return, you once again visit and have this (and other documents) stamped by the Receita Féderal to take back responsibility for your yacht.

Late Sunday morning we went for an early lunch to BowTeco a stone trough from Vagabund. They have free Wi-Fi. We were still enjoying lunch when some of the local yachties started to arrive. Teresa and Assis came visiting and could not found us on Vagabund and joined the party. We met Ivan, Sabrina and their son Oscar of Milo One. They are a French couple that will be sailing North in a short while and is also part of the BR Rally. Perhaps we will see them later. We ended up having dinner at the restaurant as well and got back to Vagabund after dark.

What are very special about Bracuhy are the friendly helpful people. The regularity of their social gets together. One is called happy hour: Everybody is invited to meet each other for a drink and a chat every second night.

The few days of free Wi-Fi at the price of a meal at BowTeco gave us the opportunity to update the webpage, talk to family back home and just to become me again.

Wednesday was our last day in the marina. That afternoon we did go and say good buy to Teresa and Assis. Special friends that invite us into their lives, hearts and home. I trust that we will see each other in the near future again. I dedicate the following poem to them. They are very special to us.

People in your life

People come into your life for a reason, a season or a lifetime.

When you know which one it is, you will know what to do for that person..

When someone is in your life for a REASON, it is usually to meet a need you have expressed.

They have come to assist you through a difficulty, to provide you with guidance and support,

to aid you physically, emotionally or spiritually.

They may seem like a godsend and they are.

They are there for the reason you need them to be.

What we must realize is that our need has been met, our desire fulfilled, their work is done.

The prayer you sent up has been answered and now it is time to move on.

Some people come into your life for a SEASON, because your turn has come to share, grow or learn.

They bring you an experience of peace or make you laugh.

They may teach you something you have never done.

They usually give you an unbelievable amount of joy.

Believe it, it is real. But only for a season.

LIFETIME relationships teach you lifetime lessons,

things you must build upon in order to have a solid emotional foundation.

Your job is to accept the lesson,

love the person and put w hat you have learned to use in all other relationships and areas of your life.

It is said that love is blind but friendship is clairvoyant.

Thank you for being a part of our life! Whether you were a reason, a season or a lifetime.

On our way out of the marina they were standing on their yacht waving us goodbye. A special thank you. Bracuhy and the people of Bracuhy will always have a special place in our hearts and we have very special memories.

For our first night outside the marina we anchored at one of our favorite anchorage spots at Itanhanga only a few miles from Bracuhy. We enjoyed having Vagabund swinging around the anchor only dictated by wind and current again.

Early Thursday the 6th June we pull up the anchor to leave for Angra dos Reis. We fill up with diesel and water. Loaded with the necessary groceries from the store and now what was left was my stitches and the Capetania. Between two points it is not always a straight line. Zack drop me at the emergency care at the hospital. Eventually a doctor removes the stitches. The scar is not very bad. Zack went to the Capetania, had to go to Customs and was send back to the Capetania. At four we got our Saida.

We left at 17h00 Angra dos Reis and on our way we past an oil rick coming in for repairs. Cruising through heavy fishing boats busy dragging nets we were safely anchored at 19h30 at Praia dos Mangues. Spending our last night in Ilha Grande before sailing north.

7June 2013 Friday

The water was coming alive with a school of dolphins swimming in the bay. They were playing around Vagabund as a final greeting of special time in Baya Ilha Grande. One specific dolphin came meters away from the boat, stopped, lift her head up out the water and looked at us for a few seconds. What a moment and way of saying good-bye.

With the start of our engines another surprise. The log showed 10 000 nm on the clock. We started our journey with a prayer with a special thankful heart to the Lord for protecting us, during these times on Vagabund, for the friends and family that could share with us her presence, and especially those that are supporting us regardless with their prayers. Thankful for Knowing that we are not alone.

The wind has turned South East and it was time for us to start our journey North. Zack was enjoying himself with all his fishing equipment. Just to have a line in the water again. To feel the water under Vagabund. From Ilha Grande to Cabo Frio it is an almost due east course. A light wind was blowing for the whole day.

8^th June Saturday

Around midnight we passed Rio de Janeiro with her lights bright at the background.

Traffic was hectic and we experienced a rush hour in the proximity of Rio. We altered our save AIS alarm to less than 0,5 nm as it was continuously going off. It was fishing vessels, trawling vessels, small traveling cargo vessels amongst dangerous rocks and oil rigs. The radar with it MARPA tracking was working full time and then you had to zoom out to sea the AIS targets of the big boy tankers, pilot boats and cargo ships shooting past the screen with barely enough time to react. It felt like something out of a space game only difference this was for real.

With the sun ricing we were close to Cabo Frio. The sea was calm enough for us to pass through a narrow cap between two hills instead of going around the cape. The water was a blue torques colour and a beautiful bay lay ahead of us with a beach of white sand. On the left side in the corner was Cabo Frio.

We motor the 20 nm distance to Buzios with fishing lines in the water. When reaching Cabo Frio the real was screaming. Zack caught a bonny. Fresh fish for our deep-freeze.

We phoned Clube Armação de Buzios (22 26231493) to ask permission to pick up a mooring buoy. Safely moored we visited the club to sign in. At the restaurant we had lunch and let all the loved once know that we have safely arrived.

We spend the evening on the front deck enjoying the sunset of this charming little village.

Buzios

Published on Thursday, 13 June 2013 13:59 | Written by Zack & Magda van den Berg |

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Buzios

9^th June Sunday to 13^th June Thursday

Buzios: From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"History of Buzios: Armação dos Búzios (Portuguese pronunciation: [ˌahmaˈsɐ̃w duʒ ˈbuːzjui̯ʃ]), often referred to as just Búzios, is a resort town and a municipality located in the state of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Originally settled by European pirates and slave traders, this happy mixture of many bloods prospered and became a picturesque fishing village. In 2012, its population consisted of 23,463 inhabitants and its area of 69 km².

In the early 1900s Búzios was popular with the Carioca’s high society, who wanted to escape from the chaotic city life of Rio de Janeiro and enjoy the many beaches that the peninsula offers. But it wasn’t until 1964, when the famous French Actress Brigitte Bardot visited Búzios that it grew to be a popular tourist destination.

Brigitte Bardot was a famous French Actress in the 1960s that decided to go to Rio with her Brazilian boyfriend, Bob Zagury. However due to the intense amount of paparazzi following them, Bob took his girlfriend to Búzios in order to enjoy the rest of their trip in a quieter and more exclusive site. At the time, the small town had no electricity and life there was quite bucolic yet it was the simplicity of the place, in conjunction with the peninsula’s natural beauty, that made Brigitte Bardot fall in love and declare her admiration for the small fishing village. Inevitably, Búzios became a global spotlight and although other famous stars like Mick Jagger and Madonna followed her path, but none left such an impression as Bardot did. The place where she stayed in Búzios for the first time is now a small hotel, known as Pousada do Sol. The strip of land that connects Praia da Armação with the most famous street in town, Rua das Pedras, was named after her, Orla Bardot.

The French Actress was also honored along the oceanfront path through the bronze statue of herself made by Christina Motta.

The final tribute to the French Actress is the only cinema in the balneary named after her: Gran Cine Bardot. Inside, there are many pictures of famous actors and actresses, including Brigitte’s picture and signature, which hangs on a distinctive wall."

The same artist Christina Motto made a statue of three fishermen to honor the fishermen of Buzios.

On Sunday 9th June we made use our Sat Phone expiring minutes to phone all our loved ones. It was a blessing to hear the kids voices again.

We strolled down the beautiful scenery of “Rua das Pedras” (translated "Stone Street”). The cobblestone pathway boarders the water edge and is decorated with colorful small shops, bars, night clubs, restaurants, Mercado Peixe (fish market) with the occasional statue. The seaward side of the road is equipped with a boardwalk. Most of the places only opening after 5pm.

We discovered a nice restaurant overlooking the bay of Armação. Zack thinks that if he should have a restaurant it is what it should be: Jazz music playing in a restaurant full of character, good food and overlooking the sea.

Sitting on the pier we have been able to talk to the McCarty's, and Cronje's and was disappointed as the five hour difference caught up with us as it was getting late in SA and we could not get any of our other friends to answer there phones. We were disappointed that as we had some more minutes left on our sat phone.

The rest of the afternoon we strolled back shopping, eating, shopping and shopping. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset at the club before boarding Vagabund for the night.

Clube Armação de Buzios is ideally placed. Just outside the gates of Rua das Pedras. Walking distance to everything.

The Wi-Fi at the club was excellent and we enjoyed sitting at the veranda updating email and weather. At the corner just outside the gates are colorful shops to attract you to enter.

Monday 10th June

The morning was spending on the Internet and updating our web page. The afternoon we spend in the shops. I drag Zack along to spend my birthday money. Women are usually dressed in flat sandals due to the difficulty to walk on the cobblestone streets. Havaianas is the standard foot wear hear in Buzios and the prices for a pear of “plakkies” vary from R13$ to about R600$ (R60 to R3000) with only small variations making up a huge price difference.

In the center of town are some of the branded stores: Animale, Richards, Osklen, Oh Boy!, Maria Filó, Lacoste, Farm, Eclectic and Havainas to name a few. For Beachwear, the best stores are: Salinas, Lenny Niemeyer, Banco de Areia, Bum Bum and Água de Coco.

At the end of the day my money was well spend and Zack tired of shopping as it was hard work carrying all the bags.

Tuesday 11th June

On Tuesday we decided to go on a open bus tour to explore the peninsula. Teresa was our guide that could speak English and told us all interesting tales about each visiting point.

Buzios: From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Originally settled by European pirates and slave traders, this happy mixture of many bloods prospered and became a picturesque fishing village. With more than 26 beaches that have a diversity of beauty never seen before, this small peninsula resembles a small island.

Today, the peninsula is a travelling site that offers calmness, direct contact with nature and breathtaking views. Búzios is a popular getaway from the city and a worldwide tourist site, especially among Brazilians and Argentinians.

The west coast beaches offer calm, clear waters while the east coast ones, facing the open sea, are wilder and draw surfers and water sports enthusiasts. Azeda, Ferradura, João Fernandes, Armação, and Geribá, popular for surfing are amongst the most popular beaches in town. "

The tropical bush was replaced by bush and Savanna grass. The rainfall is much less than in Ilha Grande.

Tattooing is very popular in Brazil. Every second person has a tattoo on his or her body. While we were enjoying the view Teresa was in the meantime quickly been painted again. Her skin will absorb this special ink.

At Ponta da Langoinha the rock formations was interesting with facing the open sea. A lifeguard was always on duty to rescue people or fishermen that falls into the open sea.

That evening we want to experience Rua das Pedras, Buzios' main street, active nightlife and a great variety of shopping and restaurants were open. It is now their off season in Búzios becomes for us a paradise to be able to choose without waiting at any shop or restaurant. To experience the nightlife in Búzios is a must, and the most famous clubs/bars are: Privilège, Pacha, Anexo and Zapata.

We decided on a small restaurant next to the water edge. What was special is that you could choose your fresh fish that they grilled on an open fire. With a white Chilly wine it could not be better.

Wednesday 12th June 2013

You can go by bus to Cabo Frio for only R$4 per person. It is about an hours travel. Brazil public transportation is excellent. With our boats papers, food and water we catch the bus two blocks from the club. Two hours later Zack was most relieved that he had an Entrada and a Saida for Vitoria. Paperwork was in place.

We walked over the bridge and enjoyed our picnic on a bench overlooking the river. Some well-presented local woman spontaneously approached us she must have been impressed with our bench picnic. She was excited and having a huge conversation with us. Our smiles only fired her further up. I didn’t have the heart to interrupt her (neither will she have allowed me to). We enjoyed the moment of her being spontaneous knowing that she is going to feel like a fool once she found out we do not understand a word she was saying. Nevertheless regardless of the outcome we nodded our heads and keep on smiling. The end was sudden and her departure quick after we could not reply on her fourth question explaining that we do not speak Portuguese. This moment and not the Capitanee over the radio was my biggest language wish that I could understand and speak the language better.

By updating our weather again we could leave Buzios for our next leg towards Vitoria. There is a sufficient long weather window, without northeastern winds, for us to reach Vitoria if we leave at 12h00 on Thursday. The winds are turning again on Sunday.

Vitoria

Published on Monday, 24 June 2013 16:30 | Written by Zack & Magda van den Berg |

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Sailing Leg from Buzios to Vitoria and Vitoria

13^thJune to 25^th June 2013

13^th June 2013 Thursday

Sailing leg from BUZIOS TO VITORIA (192 nm).

We left Buzios 12h00 on Thursday 13^th June 2013. We sailed with the screecher around Cabo São Tomé, passing well clear of this Cape and also clear of the many oil platforms laying to the East of the Cape. We head for the 1000 m drop off for some fishing.

Along this stretch we come across many dozens of fishing boats, both drifting and trawling at night. You can never rely on a Brazilian fishing boat to have the correct lights and most of those drifting with long nets (allegedly up to two miles long) carry no lights at all so as to avoid attracting flying fish. Theoretically they have radar and will see you, but we shine a light on our sails periodically.

14^th June 2013 Friday

Friday was spend cleaning, washing and the afternoon catching up on some reading. Zack spend the day fishing and sorting out his fishing gear. Just before sunset his hard work was rewarded by a 10 kg Barracuda. We worked for more than an hour to get the steaks in the freezer.

15^th June 2013 Saturday

With the day breaking we sail into Baía do Espírito Santo. A lot of cargo ships were lying on anchor waiting for their turn to enter the port.

We sail into Vitória to find a very modern, clean, wealthy, vibrant city, full of high-class shops and restaurants. The supermarket close to the yacht club was well stocked with a good variety of fresh produce. Although we did find a storm water discharge point, that had a sewage smell to it, close to one of the main beaches the water quality in the bay were significantly better than the water we encountered in Guanabara Bay (Rio). What a contrast - and a very pleasant one as well.

We moored outside the yacht club. It was a sunny day and many people were enjoying the Saturday on the beach. A popular activity was renting a stand-up board with a single long paddle to explore the beach and close by island in the bay. (Had to watch Zack taking photos of the girl- he claim he was capturing the dog on the board- decide for yourself!!!!????)

The Iate Clube do Espírito Santo (yacht club) was very welcoming and for a nominal R$ 22,40 (about R105) per head per day we had full access to a well managed exclusive club facilities including excellent bar and restaurant overlooking the harbour, swimming pool, and sauna. We moored stern to onto the fixed pontoon for fresh water and 220 Volt (60 Hertz) electricity. They got a 10-ton crane to stack fishing boats.

Some Facts from Wikepedia:

"Vitória (Portuguese pronunciation: [viˈtɔɾjɐ], Victory) is the capital of the state of Espírito Santo, Brazil. It is located on a small island within a bay where a few rivers meet the sea. It was founded in 1551. The city proper (area 93 km2 or 35.9 sq mi) has a population of 313,300 (2005) whilst the Greater Vitória metropolitan area has a population of more than 1,612,885 (2005), the 14th largest in Brazil. In 1998 a survey conducted by the United Nations rated Vitória as the fourth best state capital in Brazil to live in, rating cities on health, education, and social improvement projects.

Some of the first Portuguese colonists to settle in Brazil settled in Vitoria in the year 1535. The small island wasn't very well known until a bit later when the local tribal Indians resisted the colonial invation and an extra effort had to be put in to secure the Island of Vitória.

More people moved into the area due to the abundance of sugar cane and gold mining potential in addition to trying to escape the attacks. Agriculture was the primary industry of the island during the first several years, but slowly became more modernized between the year 1535 and 1889.

The year 1894 in Vitoria was marked mostly by the exportation of coffee, which at that time had a very high price tag and was desired by many other countries because of its taste and quality. Vitoria's location close to the sea was a key reason exports became very important to this small island.

The modernization of Vitoria included a railroad system, hospital, cemetery, park, state museum, state library, a public archive, and several schools.."

In the Iate Clube do Espírito Santo (yacht club) we met Heleno and after only just meeting us he invited us for lunch at his home. With a short notice his wife Marilia served us a pleasant lunch, introduced us to a big variety of traditional Brazilian dishes. Finally we have desert with fruit and cream. Then after that they let us taste all different kind of fruit that is unfamiliar for us. The cherry was Brazilian coffee in the most beautiful small silver cups and saucers. Spontaneously their warm open Brazilian hearts opened up for us and we enjoyed the rest of the afternoon with them seeing various attractions in the city.

We drove by the famous chocolate factory (Garoto). Fortunately they were already closed. Apparently when on tour inside the factory you can eat as much chocolate as you like from there production belt but you are not allowed to take any with you. Saved us from a guaranteed headache due to sugar overdose.

We visit Covento da Peha (Church of the Rock). From the church you have a view of the city in all the directions.

It was a very special experience to be there while there was a service. Walking around the church with music and voices praising God. I could not understand but I enjoyed the peace of listening to the sounds of people praising… saying my own prayer for family and friends somewhere far away….

On the way back to the yacht club they decided that we must also visit the Agricultural show where you could buy several handmade products.

I was spoiled by Zack who bought me a most exquisite Orgidee (Hendrik kan nie help om aan jou te dink tussen al hierdie blomme nie!!!)

We had several tastings and every time when Marilia disappeared she made her appearance with even more products to taste. Needless to say we skipped supper completely. We bought several interesting jams, handmade sweets of orange peel and special coffee. It felt like being back at home at our annual church bazaar. We return back to the yacht club. In a few hours we have explored the tourist attraction of Vitoria accompanied by two very special people. They opened their hearts and home for us. After settling back in on Vagabund exhaustion took over, due to the lack of sleep of our previous night sailing, we locked up and enjoyed a solid 10-hour sleep.

16^th June to 25^th June 2013

Being on a pontoon inside the marina gave the unwelcome mosquitos an opportunity to pay us a visit. Even with our modified mosquitos nets in front of the windows, they still somehow managed to penetrate our defenses. They hide away until you have settled into a deep sleep; with the sound the mosquito bzzzzz the midnight feast will start.

My best decoy is Zack (his blood must taste like honey to them). As long as he is next to me I do not have to worry about mosquitos. On Monday night my decoy took all the hammering he could take. He retrieved to our bow port cabin with a closed door. I did not understand nor sympathized with his complaints until I was left alone. The mosquito attack was violent and precise. The next morning it looked like I had contracted chickenpox. At least 20 red spots on my face the cover stick could not hide it away.

War was declared. I up our defenses by improving our mosquito nets for the next two days and invested in some additional aerosol spray. This was not a local battle, as we have to secure Vagabund from any mosquitos before entering into a malaria areas. Dengue Fever is another disease carried by mosquitoes in the most parts of Brazil that also require medical attention.

Every time Zack hear or see a mosquito I have to dug and evacuate to avoid a “sorry” as he is swings the Zap bat around.

Our visit to the “Capitania” on Monday (17^th June 2013) was easy and quick. We waved a taxi down across the main street in front of the club and with only R$8 we were standing in front of the big steel gate entrance of the Capitania. Vitoria Shopping Mall was on our way back and we decided to take a nice stroll. A big white majestic cross let us deviate from our route. Upon investigation the cross was erected for Peace after the Second World War.

We enjoyed the scenery and were spoiled with beautiful sunrises.

Upon return from our early morning kayak exercise we decided to go and investigated a French sailing boat moored outside the marina Apart from the tender tied up behind the boat we did not observe much activity. Only after a few calls in English we managed to see a weary head pop up from below the deck. We introduced ourselves.

Our lonely sailor was Herman Paris on sailing vessel Iris. An artist/musician and photographer that has purchased a home for himself in the form of a steel ketch. The boat was purchased in Turkey and he is on his way sailing to Reunion Island (close to Madagascar) were his ex wife and daughter is living.

While crossing the Atlantic from Europe you have to sail around the South Atlantic High Pressure close to South America to pick up the South Easterly winds of the Roaring Forties to slingshot you past Cape Town to South of Madagascar. Currently he is stranded in Vitoria with a broken engine.

On our second visit the most beautiful piano music greeted us. A small piano tied to the mast extension below deck is a first for us. He is a true artist and composer. Our SA pilotage book was donated with our well wishes to a speedily repair, fair winds and good sailing to Reunion.

Wednesday night another French sailing yacht arrived. Isabel and Philippe Chirinian on sailing vessel Voiler Azad were also sailing North on their way to the Caribbean. We have enjoyed spending an evening with Hermann, Philippe and Isabel on Vagabund. Exchanging stories and plans for the future.

The week was spend by getting the latest weather reports, exploring the city, attending to our mail, talking to our loved ones, get my phone to work again as well as solving a problem on my laptop by using Team viewer allowing our IT specialist back at home to remotely take over my computer and sort out all the glitches. Thank you Manie for always being on stand by and helping us out.

Every morning was started with coffee in our front garden….

Followed by our daily exercise of rowing for an hour in our kayak (always with a fishing reel and a repala at the back). With the kayak we managed to explore a new beach every day in the proximity of the yacht club.

Around the islands we encountered the most beautiful houses. A small church found its way amongst these houses right on the edge of the water.

The duration of our stay in Vitoria is determined by utilizing the correct weather window. The Islands of Abrolhos is 190nm North East of Vitoria with limited shelter and shallow coral reefs. Santo Andre is another 105nm further North. The river mouth entry is tricky and should be entered preferably an hour before high tide and in daylight.

We checked the weather daily and were relieved to see that our Northern passage will only be delayed for 10 days. We will be able to sail out on Tuesday (25^th June 2013) afternoon.

We watched a Brazilian soccer game against Mexico with the Federation Cup at the local restaurant. When Brazil scored you could hear cars hooting and all of a sudden pedestrians cheering. Only realizing almost everybody is watching or listening when Brazil is playing. Another FIFA initiative was to make people aware of the illiteracy level of English (our single biggest frustration in Brazil).

With the weekend ahead of us we decided to invite Heleno and Marilia (our Vitoria Brazilian friends) for a South African dinner aboard Vagabund Saturday evening. We introduced them to barbequed chicken, “paptert”, special salads and afterwards rooibos tea with honey. I was spoiled with beautiful flowers and Zack with lots of fruit. People like Heleno and Marilia makes Brazil such a special place.