Cape Town to Walvis Bay

6^th November 2012 Tuesday

Last preparations to be done. Steve to do the last of the canvass work. Heinz with the last of the electrical to be synchronized. I off to the airport to drop off the car and to meet Michael and Jacques. Sms’s to everybody that this is now the beginning of our dream. A dream that started with Zack’s farther. He only dreamed about this and pass it on to his son. When I met Zack it was part of his dream and become part of mine. Normally it is kids that have a dream and parents let them follow their dream and spray their wings. Now it is parents that follow their dream and our kids that have to let us go and follow our dream

While sitting and eat lunch all together, I received a phone call of Libby from Offshore Sailing Academy to wish us fair winds and safe sailing. Her  email received a little bit later  includes a attachment  that was a confirmation that we are in God’s care. That He will watch over us. Ps 91:4 he will cover you with his feathers. He will shelter you with His wings. His faithful promises are your armor and protection.

There is absolutely nothing to fear about tomorrow, for God is already there. This picture and message are on the corner of my laptop from April 2010. Everyday a reminder of Ps 17:8 “Keep me as the apple of Thy eye, hide me under the shadows of Thy wings…” With this email it was a confirmation that on our dream God will keep us under His wing.

 

Jacques prayed for us at the table. Everybody gathered around our yacht for the last things to be done: slip lines etc. Greetings. A last hug from Michael. For me very emotional to stand in the embrace of our son and to feel his arms around me. They were standing on the jetty when we left the marina.

 

We left Cape Town harbour at 16h00. Rudi followed us on Catarina with a crew: Deslynn, Rudi and Deslynn daughter, Neil, Jennifer, Richardt, Michael and Jacques. We went up south and turn Vagabund to hoist the G2 sail.

 The logo of Tecroveer was displayed on the G2. “Clean water for future generations”. We belief that the purpose of our lives are to clean water.

 

Tecroveer was started by Zack’s dad and now our son is part of Tecroveer as the third generation. Where everybody working for Tecroveer become family. Tecroveer is bigger than any person. A legacy of clean water. To go on even if we are not there. Tecroveer as a team part of our dream. To be the backbone that is part of our world.

With the G2 up en presenting our logo, Tecroveer as a team is part of this adventure.

After a while and some photos Catarina turn back to the harbour.  We phone our daughter Zandia. To hear her voice before we are to far offshore for using our cell phones.

 

The wind was steady at 14 knots and fall down to 6 kts behind Robben Island. It pick up again to 18 knots and with the new extension and the G2 we are doing 9.2 to 9.4 knots. I clean the salon area and get everything ready for the night shifts. We have bought some take away pizza and pasta to eat the first day. Everybody can eat the first day when they feel hungry and to let your body settle and getting your sea legs.

 

At 19h00 we decided to take the G2 down because the wind is going to increase to 25knots at 3h00 the next morning and we are sailing offshore around Dussen Island close to the shipping lanes and with the genoa is easier to make course alterations than the G2. With the headsail we only get about 5 knots but is was fine because it gives us time to settle in.

It is so much different than passages along the coastal waters in the Indian ocean. There it is a small weather window and all the limits are pushed. On those passages it was always max sail for the wind plus one engine to get max speed to get as quickly as possible to get to the next harbour before the weather window closes. Now the first leg is about 12 days to Saint Helena under sail.

Zack spend some time to get all the overlays and settings on the plotter and was taking the first shift. Zack being a night person and I a morning person, it made sense to do the shifts according to our nature. The other person taking over when you are tired. Normally I take over between 2 and 3 in the morning till about 6 or 7.

At midnight inside of Robben Island and outside of Dussen Island the boat traffic was busy. Loose sideways waves break occasionally over the side of the yacht.

7^th November 2012 Wednesday

At 02h00 we were in the mouth of Saldaha Bay. We passed a big cargo ship and a fishing vessel passed 0.5 nm from us. At 4h00 the wind start picking up to 17 knots  and we do now about 7 knots with only the headsail. At about 7h37 we were about 27 nm West of Cape Columine. We set navigation to track to WP 27º26,112 S, 13º30,743 E. The sea state was improving with the sea temperature 12,2ºC. The solar panels break even on power absorbed at 8h00.

Helping with the nausea and not drinking any tablets was eating ginger bon sweets and drinking ginger infused tea (ginger is a natural remedy for motion sickness). The tea and sweets with ginger assist in alleviating nausea and motion sickness.

During my morning shift and Zack taking a nap, I could not yet read, but instead listen to a cd of Garry Kietsweter.

The wind blow steady between 18 to 25 knots and we were doing about 7.3 knots with the headsail. On the different screens were different overlays (split screens) that make it easy to navigate from inside the saloon. On the TV screen was the tracking and radar screen. Above on the Raymarine E7 plotter was a picture outzumed of where we are going together with all the info like wind speed, depth, SOG etc.

We have the AIS system. AIS – Automatic Identification System. A shipboard VHF transporder system which enables ships to exchange ID, position, course, speed and other essential data with other nearby AIS equipped ships and shore stations. AIS is only mandatory for larger commercial vessels. Pleasure craft are not required to have AIS but it  make a significant contribution to safety and collision avoidance. You can track a ship from miles away and start doing a course alteration if necessary. You can only start seeing it about 5 nm away and if the vessel is traveling at about 15 knots you do not have much time to change course.

Even with the sun shining brightly at 12h00 it was still very cold because of the sea temperature. I was sitting in the corner of the saloon with a blanket, where one was able to see the front and side through the window. A nice spot where observation can be made visually outside and the screens can be watched as well. No land was in sight. Only water with waves with white crest on all the sides of Vagabund. The sea was a deep black blue. The sky has a few thin clouds and was a pale blue color. The waves passes sideways from the back and sometimes slams against the hull with a bashing sound.

At 14h00 we hoist the screecher and was doing about 8.6 knots in the 18-24 knots of wind. At 17h00 the wind has increased to 30 knots and the sea swells were much bigger. We decided to take the screecher down and change to the headsail for the night. With only the two of us we put safety first and change to the headsail, because one person can handle the headsail alone on his night shift.

With the inhauling of the screecher we have to work smarter because we were one hand short to handle the screecher in stronger wind. We fasten an extra sheet round the cleat to a winch to pull down instead of an extra hand. With the deploying of the headsail the one sheet came loose and the headsail was flapping in the wind with the other sheet ripped out on the other side. We manage to inhaul the headsail, recover the loose sheets and deploying the headsail again.

I was wet and cold after all this exercise on the front deck. Being splashed with cold sea water as waves were passing through. I took a warm shower. Thank’s Rudi for a bath shower in our bathroom. Even with the sea state that was rough you can sit down on your knees and shower. I made some curry and rice and we sit down for a warm hot meal with tomato salad on the side. We listen to music and watch the sun go under. We sms our GPS position to Michael and talk to him to confirm that the sms system is working. The satellite phone was only working if you go outside because we did not have an external antenna. Every night at 18h00 we will go outside to send the sms and wait for his sms regarding the weather for the next 2 days.

At 21h00 the wind picked up to 38 knots and it was at gale force with huge waves of about 3-4 m with breaking crests. We were surfing the waves at about 19 knots. We were overpowered and made the headsail smaller to about 50% and put the engines in reverse gear. Now we are doing about 8 knots coming down the slope of the waves. Zack was taken a nap for an hour before his night shift that lies ahead. At 23h00 the sea state was still rough with occasional breaking of waves on the port side but the wind decreases to about 30 knots.

8^th November 2012 Thursday

At 01h22 Zack deployed the headsail to 100%. The sea state was more stable and the wind have calmed down to 22 knots. A may day was sent out by Yacht Elanga (2 persons and a dog) 10 hours ahead of us (68 nm). They have activated their EPIRB and was in a distress situation. A boat closer accept the may day and react as the relay boat with Cape Town Radio. We plot there position on our map. They were on our course. The VHF radio was not clear and only parts of the conversations regarding the situation could be heard.

05h30 the sea state was calmer but the waves were still large (about 3 meters) and the wind about 20-23 knots. We have taken down the headsail and put up the screecher to get most of this wind. We were cruising now at about 7 knots.

According to the VHF info Yacht Elanga was about 9 nm ahead of us. Going back to Port Nolloth at a speed of about 3.4 to 4 knots. We call Cape Town Radio to offer assistance if needed.

At 12h15 the sea state was calmer and we changed the screecher for the G2 and was sailing now at 8 knots with wind speed of 14-18 knots. The water was warmer at 14ºC and was a blue turquoise color.

Zack get busy with his fishing gear and put some lures into the water. At 15h53 we crossed the border of Namibia. We were sailing at about 9 knots with the G2 in a wind of 18-22 knots. The whole day on the radio you can follow Cape Town Radio confirming the position of Yacht Elanga. It is an assurance that if something happened that there is ongoing help till you are safe in a harbour.

Late afternoon Zack caught a yellow tail. Big enough for us for dinner with savory rice. At 19h00 the wind was blowing at 20-22 knots and become too strong for the G2. We decided to take the G2 down for the night. Even in 22 knots wind it was difficult to bring her down. A gym session of an hour. We deploy the headsail at 100% and was doing now only 5.2 knots. At 20h20 the sea state become rougher and the wind gusts up to 28 knots. Now and then a side wave breaks over Vagabund with seawater that covers the side windows of the saloon on port side. It was the right decision to be conservative for the night.

 

At 22h00 I was sitting with a cup of rooibos tea, listening to a Gary Kietswetter cd. My favorite past time.  Only with one earpiece, so that I can still use all my senses of hearing, especially at night when you can see nothing. The sky was overcast and the night pitch dark with the only sound the water bashing against the hull of the yacht and the noise of the wind through the sheets.

At 23h45 a tanker Olesya was about 0.5 nm on starboard side, less than an hour away. We change course 10º to port with the CPA that change to 1.6 nm.

9^th November 2012 Friday

At 01h14 the sea becomes calmer and the wind was now 14-19 knots and we wee doing about 5.1 knots with the headsail.

After sunrise it was cloudy and overcast. We rather start the port engine to help loading the batteries. With the port engine running we have hot water and it helps the headsail so that our speed increases to 6 knots.

Our average speed for the trip was 6.8 knots. We only want to be in Brazil the 10^th December because our visa is only for 3 months. Flying back to South Africa the 8^th March 2013. We decided to divert to Walvis Bay because there was enough time left.  We set a new waypoint.

Zack put the plotter on tracking to the waypoint to get a line on the plotter and after that back to auto pilot. With the tracking the auto pilot is jerky and  by taking it off the line was still showing on the plotter and it makes it easier to navigate.

At 11h00 the wind was about 15 knots. We hoist the G2 instead of the headsail and were doing about 7.4 knots. Normally we eat at 12h00 the rest overs from the previous night. I made paella with the savory rice, left over fish and a tin of mussels.

The sea state was calm and the sky was partly overcast. It was cold during the day and after sunset every day the temperature falls further. At 14h15 a tanker High Nefeli was passing us at 0.78 nm. She was on her way to Durban at 155ºT doing 11.7 knots.

At 15h45 the sea state become rougher and we take the G2 down and switch to the headsail. At 20h30 we have to close the saloon door due to waves that occasionally break at the back of yacht and the water running up over the cockpit area splashing water into the saloon.

I did the early evening shift and was listening to gospel music worshipping. Zack came up and confirm that we have to put a declaration up on Vagabund for what we stand for.

Zack took over at 22h00 and was doing the middle night shift. I woke up just after midnight due to sounds that have changed. I am now used to the wind and the waves. The wind was howling and the waves was bashing against the yacht with so much energy that each time she respond with a shockwave going though her as she absorbs the energy. The following sea with waves about 3-4 meters has to go underneath her hull causing loud slamming sounds. Occasional rogue waves jumps on us from the sides, splashing onto the saloon windows. I was struggling to sleep. Zack on duty has to inhaul the headsail to a storm jib size because we were surfing down the waves making 11 knots with the headsail in the 34 knots wind.  By reducing the headsail it has a big impact to reduce the speed of surfing the waves. The wind was gusting up to 38 knots. Tonight it was the sea state that was far more worse than the wind.

10^th November 2012 Saturday

At 04h30 the wind was blowing at 25-30 knots and the sea state was steadily stabilizing. It was very cold and still pitch dark with the sky overcast. I was very tired after a rough night with lack of sleep and when Zack took over at 6h30 I slept till about 9h00. Zack then slept until about 13h00.

While Zack was sleeping I was working on our drug register. We have bought our medicine from Ysterplaat Medical Supplies. I have received the bags with medicine the day before we have left Cape Town, but have not yet organized the bags. I write on each box what it was for and the dosage. I group all the type of medicine together and enter the S4-S6 scheduled medicine into the drug register. On the medicine list I write in which bag the medicine could be found. It took about the whole day to complete this task. I did also make sure that in our medicine cabinet with our day-to-day medicine that there is no medicine beyond expiring dates.

At 14h00 we put up the screecher. The wind was blowing at 16 knots, the sea state was calmer but the pressure kept on dropping. At 8h00 it was 1011 and now it was already 2008 mBar. With the dropping of the pressure it means that another storm is building up. We phone Michael to get the weather.  The wind is going to calm down to 10 knots during the night but wind is going to be strong on Monday.

At 17h00 the pressure was started to rise again and the sea was very calm with the wind only at 10 knots. We put the G2 up and was only doing about 5 knots.

At 20h00 we prayed together on the trampoline and declaring spiritual authority of Jesus Christ over her and marking her with anointing oil. That everybody boarding Vagabund will feel His presence in the spiritual realm. Soli Deo Gloria.

We work out the distance left to Walvis Bay. We want to be there before dark on Sunday. We are left with 120 nm. We need to do an average of 7.4 knots. With both motors for 16 hours at 2500 rpm we will use about 100 l fuel. At 23h00 we took the G2 down and start both the motors. The sea was very calm and the wind was only blowing at 7 knots.

11^th November 2012 Sunday

We did not have a flag for Namibia. I did have some paint and cloth and decided to make one. On my ipad I did have an image of the flag. I draw the different lines and paint the flag in the different colors. This is only a temporary flag because the colors were not rain resistant.

 

With the motors running it was a peaceful lazy day. Zack keep himself busy with his fishing gear.

 

We arrive at Walvis Bay about 16h00 and anchored in front of Walvis Bay Yacht Club. That evening Zack was enjoying an Eisbein and beer for dinner.

 

 

 

 

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OUR INHACA TRIP

15 December to 31^st December 2011

Written by Hendrik McCarthy

The phone rang shrill echoing through the house. Hendrik its Zack, what are you and Cornelia doing during the December holiday?

Do you and Cornelia want to sail with us to Inhaca; it’s a two week trip.

Zack my brother in law and his wife Magda our best friends, bought a 40 feet Maverick a year ago and sailed it from Cape Town to Richards Bay. Their yacht is anchored at the Richards Bay yacht club.

During the past year Zack and Magda would fly down and go sailing once a month and we joined them on many an occasion, but that is another story.

I chatted with my wife Cornelia, she was stunned. She enjoys short trips but two weeks on the sea, never never!! After much coercion my wife gave up and decided to go on the trip.

It’s the second week in December. The weather pattern played along. It is ten a clock at night. The sail boat is packed. It was time for a safety talk. Zack and Magda shared with us all the do`s and don’ts. Both my wife and my eyes were big and there was a little niggling feeling on the stomach. We are not sailors, but we are willing to learn.

The engines purred to life, Richards bay harbour was basted in the last light. The sun was setting with a yellow red colour in the west. We would make turns during the trip. My wife, Zack, Magda and myself would take the watch alternatively. Each team took four hours on and four hours off.

It was not long when Zack decided to lift the bow sail. What an amazing experience, the engines were cut and it was it was only the sound of the bow cutting through the ocean. It was pitch black, the stars looked close enough to be plucked. I sensed how small we human beings are sailing at night. It was time to sleep.

Four hours seemed such a short time, my wife woke me. It was time to go on deck. Safety first, I had to put my safety harness on before going on deck. Magda was at the steering wheel. I got such admiration for Zack and Magda. Both did all the necessary sailing courses and handle the yacht as if they have been doing it for years. The night breeze was chilly.

What a learning curve! We took turns and we learnt to watch for ships on the radar. What amazing technology, the APS system. It indicates all the ships as oblong shapes, if you touch the screen, it shows all the data for the specific ship. I strained my neck, visibility is not great. Now and then you walk to the sides of the boat to look if all is clear. I was astonished at how relaxed Zack and Magda were on the boat. The next day was a perfect day on the sea.

 

Two days later we sailed in at Inhaca. It takes half a day to sail to the port in Maputo. Then your nerves are on edge. Zack must manoeuvre the big yacht in a small space. Then the team run. The balloons must be spaced correctly. Special knots must be tied.

Al last tied to an old tug boat, no wharf space. Zack and Magda were off to clear us through customs. Around us it teems with life. Small fishing boats are coming into the small harbour. In the background some fancy buildings makes a fancy backdrop against the impoverished streets. The streets are filled with vendors selling anything from fish to beer. Cornelia and my wife stayed on the boat.

Finally cleared and we were off to Inhaca. Blue shallow waters, coral reefs paved the way. We made slow progress. We reached our destination, time to anchor.

Never n dull moment, at night we drifted. How ominous does it looked, we drifting onto the main land. Up anchor, we experimented with two anchors, but that gave us hassles with the current. It was a long night. It was time to set up base.

What an amazing time. Days were filled with lazing off, snorkelling in the beautiful waters of Santa Maria.

There is an area of two kilometre long to snorkel along. Within two metres from the side the water depth drops to 12 meter. We were amazed with the fish life. Zack found a spot where big King Fish hid next to a coral tower. What an amazing sight to see these big coevally in the clean waters.

Zack and Magda explore the coasline by kayak and when we were not snorkling there is walking on the beach.

 

Zack even took us fishing on the rubber duck. He caught a Kingfish in the channel leading to the mouth. You always have some adventure. We were amazed how strong the current is in the channel next to Santa Maria.

 

We later sailed to the hotel area and explored the hotel area. We wandered through the local village.

The local vendors sold from coconuts to colourful clothing.

Never miss the Portuguese rolls baked in konkas. In a local restaurant we had chicken, the speciality of the island. We dressed up for the occasion. 

Magda the perfect hostess treated us; you will not believe our Christmas dinner. It was a six star meal.

Each evening we had to lift the rubber duck out of the water, the enjin had to be taken off and placed next to the main motors. A Big operation, I was amazed how agile Zack is to get into the enjin compartment and then had to manoeuvre the duck enjin into place. Unfortunately theft is a big concern in these waters.

Fishing in front of the island was not as successful as I thought it would be. Zack tried all the tricks in the book and landed at least a Dorado.

 All things come to an end and before knowing it 2 weeks sped past and it was time to go home.

We had rough waters in the mouth of Inhaca on our way out. I was off duty and could just feel the tremendous rolling and bobbing up and down.

During the next day the weather cleared. “Swaerie time to try for Marlin again” Out comes the reels, leaders are checked. Harnesses are set. For the fun of it I showed my wife and Magda how they should fight a fish.

The next moment one of the big reels wined. It was chaos. Zack shouted clear the deck. All the extra rods were removed. Zack decided my wife must take the fish. Zack and his wife make an amazing team. She took the steer, Zack gave instructions.

What a moment in life, my wife is not into fishing. She was doing extremely well. I talked to her continuously and gave her water. After a long battle the leader was in sight. Zack took the leader and started bringing in then striped Marlin. The beautiful colours flashed in the blue ocean. I took photos. Magda kept the boat moving to keep the Marlin calm. 

We estimated the fish at sixty five kilogram. What a blessing. Zack released the fish, a dangerous operation. Both Magda and Zack congratulated my wife with her Marlin.

The winds were favourable and our journey back was quick,

Zack and Magda you guys are an amazing blessing in our life. The two weeks sailing was one of the best moments in our life.

Baia Ilha Grande Two

19 Feb to 7 March 2013

19 Feb 2013 Tuesday

Early morning Zack wake me up with coffee, eager to let Vagabund be in open seawater again.

The previous day a diver has cleaned Vagabund from the entire organism that gowned on her hull. (Zack normally scrap the crenation growth off and will spend hours underneath the hull of Vagabund but in Bay of Guanabara he refuses to swim in the polluted water of the bay, as with the pollution alien growth takes over). The growth rate is mindboggling; it is like a petridish with the pollution the agar medium and the temperature the oven. From our previous experience we have learned to try our best that no fender or mooring line is submerged into the water while tied to the walk on.  This was especially difficult as all the walk-on moorings where either a boy or anchor at the bow, the stern is then tied up to the walk-on. The fast ferry's that run close by caused a wave that easily jerks you of balance when you stand upright in Vagabund. Zack improvised a rigging system to reduce the dynamic impact on the cleats. His structural knowledge came in handy. 

Once we cast off I washed all the mooring lines in Demostos water to make sure there is no organism on them. They are alive and attack the fiber of the lines. The previous time we had to replace some of the fenders lines because it started to disintegrate.

I received a message from Zandia very disappointed that she could not speak to me after midnight the previous day. We managed to get Internet at half past seven but because of the five-hour time difference everybody was asleep in South Africa. 

At about eight we were in the open water. Our Captain was in his element with trying different fishing lures on the lines. Late afternoon he had success with catching a Dorado. He lost the bigger brother to be caught another day. We had fresh fish for one meal and a snack for the next day.

After a long day on the sea we made landfall just after dark at Praia dos Mangues, the first cove at the island of Ilha Grande.

20 Feb 2013  Wednesday

A perfect day with clear skies, we are back in paradise. Around the yacht there was several schools of small fish. The water had a lot of plankton and the small fish were in abundance. We enjoyed being able to just jump into the clean warm water from the boat if and when you feel like it.  For daily exercise we rowed around to Praia Grande das Palmas. With the kayak close to the water edge and the sun at the right angle you can see clearly into the water. It is not as good as snorkeling but we could cover a much bigger distance while we were exercising. Around the corner we saw a big turtle swimming under the kayak before he dive into deeper water. At 11h00 the trip boats started to arrive all loaded with day visitors transforming a quite beach into a buss of activity for a few minutes till almost every one disappeared for a 30 min walk inside the tropical forest to Praia de Lopes Mendes a beach open to the ocean. The trip boats then lay at anchor and about three hours later the individual groups appear again out of the forest onto the beach where the floating restaurant gets its fair share of attention. From three in the afternoon the operation of trip boats takes over again and after five everything is quite again.

We lift anchor to explore the open ocean side of Island of Ilha Grande again. Our previous experience was motoring against a stiff breeze with a choppy sea. Most of the beaches had a choppy sea with a big swell and we could only motor by. Ilha do Jorge Grego is a small-inhabited island less than 2 nm further into the open sea. At the outside side of the island we caught two Bonitos. Zack was frilled to catch fish two days in a row. This island is beautiful with a lot of birds roaming the skies above the treetops. We anchored in the protected cove on the inside side of the island. With the kayak we explored the rocky edges. Unfortunately the visibility was not to good. We would have liked to dive here, as this is apparently one of the better dive sites in Brazil.

We anchored for the night at Praia Parnaioca in a small cove halfway down the open coastline of Ilha Grande, on the right hand side of the beach. It is a pleasant inlet that is open to the southwest. The beach was splendid and we enjoyed strolling down the beach with sand varying from coarse sand mixed with broken shells to fine powdery sand that squeaks under your feet as you step on it.

 

We walked along the beach and came to a small church decorated with flags and enjoyed the statement of there religion.

 

At the end of the beach we found a crystal clear stream flowing into the sea.

 

Because of the remote location and distance of travel required day visitors were not present. Long-range motorboats transported campers that stayed a few days in dedicated three campsites. The result is only a few holidaymakers that enjoy these exquisite beaches. We have a beautiful sunset on the beach before returning back to Vagabund.

 

Looking at the stars on the foredeck we talked about what we would like to enjoy doing when we will be back in SA for March and April. Seeing our children, family and friends is a priority for both of us. For Zack supporting and encouraging the team back at home, experiencing the power of his convertible again, enjoying unlimited fast Internet and playing golf. For me: Pampering with my hair, nails, and facial, to be able to take a long bath with a lot of warm water. Being able to walk in our garden and shop in shopping centers of my choice. To be able to phone when I feel like it, visit friends and family and to have Internet for emails and surfing for info.

21 Feb 2013 Thursday

I woke up early and with coffee in my hand put the satellite phone on, eager to receive messages from our children. Only 15 days left before we are back in South Africa. We are past the point were we have to suppress the feeling of longing. Yes we will miss Vagabund the moment we set foot back in SA as it is our new home and two months later we will return to further our quest but for now I can start making plans of when to see who and do stuff that I only can do in our house in Fochville. I could even made an appointment for a hair cut on the Saturday in March after landing in SA, before we will take the road to Van der Bijl Park and Pretoria. Zack just do not have the heart to say no when I asked him if we could go and greet our children instead of getting rid of jetlag. That we will do later!!! I think he just want to drive his car again!! 

Another yacht came into the cove. It was Nina our Italian friends. They wanted to stay in this cove for tonight. We did not need much convincing to decide we will also stay another night. Paulo and Sylvia were invited for dinner. The rest of the day we enjoyed the sunshine, rowing, swimming and going to the beach, playing beach tennis. A new record of 53 strikes of keeping ball in the air was set. Zack showed me a trick of standing in the water on your pool noodle while balancing with your hands. With a lot of laughter and splashing it took some time before I could do it.

That night we had delightful companionship and we learned a lot about sailing conditions in the Mediterranean, as we were considering sailing Vagabund to the Med. We were absorbing their advice. 

The temperature and weather we were enjoying is were different to what we experienced in January when it was much hotter and raining almost every day.  It was decided to enjoy it while it last and we postponed our over due entrada stamp from the caputanee of Angra dos Reis.

22 Feb 2013 Friday

It is planned. I will be able to see our children that weekend. 14 "slapies" left before I will be sleeping in our bed at home. Now to make every minute count while we are still here with the sun, clear water and Vagabund. 

The next morning we nipped further West around the next bay to Praia do Aventueiro. This is a State Marine Park where fishing is not allowed. I was disappointed the previous time when big swells prevented us from anchoring at this beach.

 

 

According to me this is the most beautiful beach in Baia Ilha Grande. It could any time compare with the beaches that we enjoyed in Seychelles. I was intrigue with the beach: turquois water and the interesting rock formations. On every lookout point a bamboos bench was erected with a "hangman", and at some places even a swing suspended from the overhanging trees on the beach.

 

On the Eastern side of the beach we explored the edges of cliffs with beautiful lookout points over the bay and beach before returning for refreshments at a small restaurant on the beach.

All we could get was cold beer, water and a Pasle to eat. Without a menu we could not found the translation to know what it was. Sounded like pasta or stew but it could not be for R&5-00. We ordered one. To our surprise it was a delicious pastry pie filled with cheese. We ordered another three to fill all the empty spaces.

 

 With our thirst and hunger quest we explored the beach. I only stood in awe to enjoy the balance of the beauty combined in torques water, see through waves building up and breaking in bright white energized water, whipping out onto clean coarse sand beach with portions of the rushing wave disturbed with a vertical splash-up by the occasional dark rounded basalt boulders. These boulders where not randomly positioned but carefully placed to form a perfectly balanced picture that was engraved into my mind as one of the highlight to our Brazilian adventure.

 

On return to our anchor spot the beach was invaded. A dozen or so motorboats with huge sets and sizes of outboards have transported their day visitors and every one was enjoying the beauty.

 

30 minutes later the light Westerly breeze has veered to a fresh Southerly breeze. Clouds started to roll in from the South, fishermen were checking and re-fastening there boats on there moorings and within fifteen minutes the beach was cleared of all day visitors as the motorboats disappeared quicker than what they appeared. The veering wind direction indicated that the feared South Western wind that blows in with a cold front is about to make its appearance. We launched our paddle ski and when we were back on Vagabund our anchorage has already became choppy and we were relieved to be on our way. This is the end of a spoiled perfect weather window.  As we rounded the point that sheltered the beach a 15 to 20 knot Southerly greeted us back on the open sea with a steep chop. 

We beated up into the wind for a few miles till we could round the SW corner of Ilha Grande. Shortly after we spotted the day-tripper fleet that diverted from Praia do Aventueiro to the small cove at Ponta dos Meros.  We decided to investigate. By the time we secured our anchor most of the motorboats has left back to Angra a 15 to 20nm trip. The wind was already at fourteen knots SW in the cove but the SW swell has not yet picked up and the cove offered enough short-term protection to do a quick snorkel by.  The left hand side of the cove is lined with submerged rocks, the fish was good and it was like being in aquarium. Along the rocks overgrown with sea life we could observe many different species of fish and other sea life. Being on the open ocean side of Ilha Grand and on the edge of the conservation area the fish was in abundance. For an hour we were lost in another world. 

 

The amount of Vagabund forward and backward rocking indicated to us that the swell is starting to pick up inside the cove. The beach was deserted. Minutes later the spaghetti chain was slurped up into Vagabund chain tummy and the Rocna Anchor where overlooking the speeding water underneath Vagabund as both motors where pushing us towards the end of the cove. 

The welcoming party for latecomers’ where fully dressed and as the last guests to arrived made us felt like guest of honor with all the attention we received. The 20 knot wind on the beam with a build up swell and the tide running out made us to scramble to tie everything down. We rose to the occasion as we unfurled our genoa and Vagabund quickly responded by speeding up to 8 knots before Zack cut back on the motors to reduce the slamming. We have special appreciation for our well build ocean going vessel. Fortunately the heavy metal band slamming only played the opening song and shortly turned into rock and roll as we rounded the most Western Point "Praia de Acahia". By the time we reached our anchoring spot at Praia do Sitio Forte we were close dancing on a laid-back 8 knot breeze. Amazing how the weather differs from the open side to the inland side.  Later that night the wind gusted up to 18 knots on our well protected anchorage and we lay comfortably with appreciation that we are not in this wind on the open ocean side wandering what the wind readings would have been.

 

If in the next two weeks as soon as the weather permitting the weather I want to go back to these weather well protected beaches. 

23 Feb 2013 Saturday

It was overcast with no wind. We exercise with our kayak around the whole bay exploring the different beaches. At 12h00 we left for Ilha de Macacos. This anchorage is known as Lagoa Azul, which means Blue Lagoon. It was crowded with trip boats and motorboats.

 

We squished in and found a spot to anchor at the back of the island. Two yellow buoys in the water marked the snorkeling place where no boats were allowed. The water was clear and various species of fish could be seen between the rock, coral and sea stars. It was an enjoyable hour of snorkeling. The rest of the bay was explored with the kayak.

At 15h00 we left for Praia do Sitio Forte where we have prawns and French fries for dinner. Relaxed after a day of enjoying Brazil.

 

24 Feb 2013 Sunday.

We decided to leave early to the windward side again. The wind was blowing at about 10 knots but the sea has big swells. At Ponta dos Meros we put anchor and with the kayak we found that the water was not clear enough for snorkeling. We went to the beach for about two hours. We went around the corner to Praia do Aventueiro, but have to turn back because the wind and swells will not allowed us to anchor in the bay. I prepare lunch and we were early back at Praia do Sitio Forte. We took an afternoon nap and enjoyed a perfect evening on the front deck.

25 Feb 2013 Monday

Early exercising with our kayak. Left for Angra at 9 h00 to visit the overdue Caputanee. To make it easier because their copy machine took more than an hour to make about 15 copies we made copies of all the documents. We put 100 liter of fuel and water and stay on the side of the fuel jetty. That way we are not on the moorings of the Marina Piratas shopping center that are monitored. Zack went to the caputanee while I was doing our grocery shopping. It took him only 10 minutes with the copies already made. 

We phoned Teresa at Marina Porto Bracuhy and were received friendly with two people waiting on the mooring to help fasten the mooring lines. Much easier to moored to a buoy and reverse back than anchor and reverse back. We confirmed at the office with the help of Teresa as interpreter of Vagabund staying in this marina when we are flying home. We met Caio and Miriam on boat Miroco. He helped to find somebody for the aircon. He will be able to come on Tuesday at 10h00. We decided to stay for the night. We used the opportunity to Tango with Zandia and Andre, Michael and Andre as well as Hendrik and Cornelia.

26 Feb 2013 Tuesday

All my emails were up to date and I have a long conversation with Suzette, getting all the news from home. Zack managed to download the manual of the computer, as it seems a programming fault. We met Reggy and Pascall on Tocata; they are French and are also on their way back home to return in June going north. Maybe we will meet on the North again.

Baia da Ilha Grande can be broken down as follows:

Ilha Grande, the largest island with leeward and windward side

Angra dos Reis as the main town

West of Angra dos Reis:

Baia da Ribeira and Baia de Paraty

East of Angra dos Reis:

Baia de Jacuacanga, Baia Mangaratiba and Baia de Sepetiba

We want to do the rest of west and east of Angra dos Reis that we have not seen before. With the weather downloaded we know that it is going to start raining at 18h00 and for the next two days.  On our way out of Bracuhy we visited Frade and around Ilha de Paqueta and Ilha Itanhaga We anchored at a small cove at Ilha Itanhanga for the night. 

27 Feb 2013 Wednesday

It started raining late the previous day and come down in buckets during the night. Zack put out our cool bags for drinking water and both were filled to the brim in the morning. About 20 liter of water each. Enough drinking water till we fly back. 

We rowed around both islands for daily exercise and decided to do some chores on the yacht before we will go and eat at the restaurant on the beach.

 

We found they are only reopening on Thursday after been closed for 7 years. We walked up the trail onto the rock. You have a view of the whole bay from the top of the rock. 

 

We took an afternoon nap and Zack managed to sort out 2 of the air cons. I did some needlework. 

28 Feb 2013 Thursday

It is still raining and we decided not to go and row. We pulled up anchor and visited the main along the main land. We went to Ilha da Gipoia but on the windward side the wave heights were to high to anchor. We turn around to anchor again at Ilha Itanhanga. We went to the restaurant and have a meal for two that was fish and prawns in a delicious sauce with rice and mash potatoes. A gourmet dish. 

 

Took an afternoon nap.

1 March 2013  Friday

Early morning kayak around island. Meet Ivan at 10h00 at the fuel jetty of Bracuhy. On Monday repairing is going to start. Arrange with marina to come in on Sunday on pier I. I arrange with Teresa to take the family out for lunch on Sunday.

The afternoon was spending at Angra. Bought our bus tickets from Angra to Rio and withdraw money at the ATM. It was still raining. We anchor for the night at P de Ubatuba. 

2 March 2013 Saturday

It is still raining and overcast. I am struggling to get the washing dry. Everything is now getting wet. We are started with the final things to be done to leave the yacht for 2 months. Zack busy with the planning to go up north. He fixed the leak in the water cabinet and installed a new deck wash pump. Later the morning the sun peeps through the clouds. The wind is blowing about 10 knots and swells are coming from the sea. Our rowing with the kayak was quite a struggle against the swells and wind.

At sunset we row to the next cove and much better anchorage that is protected against the wind and swells. We move Vagabund and at the time we are settled it was already dark. We enjoyed a sundowner on the front deck before we had a braai with the fillet out of SA.

There are products of Brazil that I really enjoy and take some of it back. Kids Off insect repellent that does has a pleasant smell and I am not allergic to it. Heliocare SPF 90 gel is a sun protective cream in a gel form that goes into your skin without forming a white layer on top. I have bought all the tubes I could find in the pharmacies in Rio. Cole drinks powder to make a drink to prevent you to drink fizzy Cole drink all day. Quarana zero that is my favorite fizzy Cole drink. It is much nicer than coke zero. 

3 March 2013  Sunday

It looks like a perfect day with the sun coming up over the hill and the sea like a mirror without any swells. 

We picked up Teresa and her family at the fuel jetty of Bracuhy at 11h00. We ate at the restaurant at Ilha Itanhanga. They brought with her Mother in law of 85. What a remarkable lady.  After an enjoyable day we moored Vagabund safely on pier I in Bracuhy. 

 

4 March 2013 Monday

Early Zack started to open up the front space to be able to reach the points on both sides where the bowsprit is fastened. Zack have to crawl into a small space to be able to reach the screws. First the genset have to shift back after some of the pipes were removed. The black water tank was removed and you can sea the screws but have to sail upside down into the opening.

 

It was 36 degrees inside with all the fans. At the end of the day the gel coats have to settle and for Tuesday only the sandpaper works, polishing and drilling of the holes.

5 March 2013 Tuesday

We have to go to Receita Féderal (Customs). Teresa is going to take us to act as interpreter. Every foreign yacht while in Brazil must formally be the responsibility of someone. They issue you with a certificate stating that you are responsible for your yacht for the 90 days that is the same as your passport visa. 

If you leave the country after 90 days upon expiring of your visa, you have to arrange for someone else to be approved by the Receita Féderal as being responsible for the boat. It could only be a public marina and not a mooring of a friend. So before you leave you have to get a form from the marina accepting the responsibility and have this (and other documents) stamped by the Receita Féderal. When you return, you once again visit Customs to reassume responsibility. When the yacht is the responsibility of the marina it must be locked and can not used by any other person. You are not allowed to took it out of the marina during this time, but can still sleep on it. The boat can stay in Brazil under these arrangements for a maximum of two years.

6 March 2013 Wednesday

At night there is a lot of “mossies” and I improvise with some net and masking tape to cover the windows.

 

The final washing and cleaning of Vagabund before we are coming back to SA. All the walls and ceilings to be washed with a vinegar solution to prevent moil growth.

7 March 2013 Thursday

Assis is taking his mother back to Rio and offer to drop us at the airport.

Teresa and I have a last chat waiting with our luggage.

 

With all the rain you find mudslides along the road.

 

On the airport we have something to eat before we get on the plane to Sao Paulo and then only after midnight our flight to Johannesburg.

 

I cannot wait to see our children. Only one more night!!!!