St Helena to Ihas Martin Vas

27th November Tuesday to 28th Nov Wednesday

We lift up anchor at 12h00 after a visit to emigration, bank and last visit to Anne' place for internet. We set course to go over a Bonaparte seamount for a bit of extra fishing. Sea state of 2 m swells and force 4 winds.  Soon St. Helena was laying behind us, as we started the long journey to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil at the other side of the Atlantic Ocean of about 2200 nm. Our longest trip that will take about 14 to 20 days depending on the wind and the weather.

We haven’t had a full sunshine day from the time we had left Cape Town. Always overcast and with the wind over the sea of 20ºC that have a chill factor so when you are outside you have to wear a jacket. It was more confortable inside the saloon with temperature of about 22ºC. 

The second day we felt lame and we both looked like zombies. We named it boat lag, and with effort we went through our daily chores. On my off time I slept most of the time. Normally it took about 2-3 days to get used to the routine of working shifts. The first night you never sleep through your three-hour off time, you sleep with your senses active till you and the Vagabund become one again. You feel what she feels, you know when the odd wave heart her, you know when she is running closer to the limits of endearment and you know when she is enjoying herself, running with a quiver of enjoyment as she vibrates as she is surfing down the wave.

It is full moon and felt so much easier during the night to be able to observe the sea state outside. To be able to can tell where every noise is coming from, is it the luff or is it the leach that needs tensioning or anticipate the wave that are slumming. The first two nights the wind picked up to force 5 With the moderate breeze in the trade winds Vagabund was in her element like a thorough breed you had to stand up in the saddle and hold her back. The two meter sea swells build a rhythm and she was just gliding through the ocean. This was what she was designed to do.  Although she is heavy loaded she is strongly build and I felt safe inside her.

With the odd squalls providing additional entertainment with wind directional changes and wind gusts exceeding the comfort zone. Vagabund responds equally and before you know it she is surfing down the waves at 11-12 knots with most comfort bear up against the crest of the next wave to fall back to 8 knots and then set of down the next wave. Brazil here we come!

During the morning hours the wind backed off to force 4 and the swells was not too bad. I like my night shift of about 3h00 to 7h00 in the morning. The time alone in the dark morning hours, with only the sounds of the sea, the moon lighting the sky above the clouds and the noise of Vagabund gliding through the water. The best is between 5 and 6 when the east is turning color. When the day make ready to take over from the night. A new day to be born. The time to be spends with worshipping and prayer, celebrating the birth of a new day. How special this morning with the full moon now and then fully visible and the sun at the same time 

 

29th   November Thursday

I am starting to feel better. I have more energy and the boat lag feeling is subsiding. Feeling to start wearing my boat dresses with a jersey. My boat dresses is a long dress that I modified by shortening the length to knee high. I can still climb, stretch and bend with a slight reduction in step length. I needed to feel something like a woman again. Zack enjoy the dresses and will always complement me when I make my appearance.

 

I have planned to do some washing by hand, needle work etc. The washing was soaking in the water of my shower bath. We turned Vagabund more South to search for more wind as the forecasts indicated Force 3 and less winds in the North. It results in a wave direction on the beam with a bumpy ride for the rest of the day. What started, as an easy task becomes a huge task to execute in the bath below deck. It was like free diving, only here I managed to hold my composure against the nausea for around 5 minutes but when the desire took over to surface for fresh air the urgency was the same. It took the whole morning to do a few pieces of laundry. Eventually by noon the washing changed Vagabund appearance to be a lot more colorful. Just in time, as I have to start the preparations for our main meal and clean the kitchen.

 

My husband was in his element, captain of his own boat. He is in one big box full of stuff to do in the middle of the ocean where nobody can disturb him. He will tweak the sails, set out different fishing lures, study the sea, do small repair work or just sit in his nothing box for hours - “strategizing”? And then captains orders: Hoist the main sail together with the G2 to sea if we can improve on our speed as the wind has dropped down to force 3. As we where running with the wind and the possibility of squalls jumping up we had to secure a jibe protector up. It took about 2 hours to finally set the G2 with the mainsail. An hour later the wind dropped to force 2. The main sail prevented the G2 from setting properly. We took the mainsail down and settled for about 3 knots in the varying 7-knot wind. 

 

30th   November Friday

The wind died down to 2 knots and we took the G2 down und run the starboard engine for 4 hours from 3 till 7 h00. The wind picks up to force 4 for a little while and the afternoon slow down again to force 2. We were doing only about 3 knots. Feeling like a cork drifting on a wide-open sea. I kept myself busy with some needlework; making lunch, clean the kitchen.

 

Just before sunset one of the reels screamed. On the end was a small rapala lure that can be at the back of the boat at a reduced speed. Zack asked me if I want to fight the fish. It was a nice fight on the light tackle and with the braid you could clearly feel the headshake. My biggest Bonito jet of 14 kg. We could fill up the empty space in the deep fridge with fresh fish. 

 1st December Saturday

Our first day of sunshine without a cloud in the sky. Struggling the whole morning to keep going in a 4 - 6 knots wind at 2-3 knots. After 14h00 the wind dropped down to between 2-4 knots. We had to take the G2 down. The only sound was now and again the water splashing against the beam. The sea was like a dam. We were alone in a wide-open ocean without any propulsion.

 

For the first few hours I actually enjoyed the tranquility and started to philosophy:

What is time? Have wanted to escape from time. From doing things on a certain time. It was replaced by sailing. Every day so many things to do with the sails. Now we were lying in the sea. Zack could not keep himself busy with fishing. A new concept for us. This is time....

After a few hours I run out of philosophy as well. This is the trade winds and not the doldrums. Paranoia started to kick in.

 

Although our average speed was above 6,5 knots your brain immediately started the calculations and speculative: At this rate we will only be after Christmas in Rio. What about the Michael and Cathri visiting us over Christmas?

Rather keep myself busy:

I baked my first bread and rusks on the ocean. Warm bread, jam and cheese. I am happy when I can be creative. Creativity for me lies in many things. Reshaping a dress from a dress I bought to something I wanted. From raw ingredients creating a dish and laying a table to present this food. Creativity in writing my thoughts down. Creativity at home in seeing a picture in my mind of a room and then creates this picture. To take and old house and by a few tins of paint create a new look. Creativity in the garden by planting new plants. By using the roses I planted 3 years back and put them floating in water. I am happy by doing the things I love and being with my best friend and husband. 

 

The wind is still not blowing!!!

A night of floating in the sea with the headsail to hold direction. Looking at the stars with the ipad at the different constellations. From 14h00 till 7h00 the next morning we have floated 14 nm. I have slept from 22h00 till 7h00 the next morning. I night of good resting.

2nd December Sunday

The wind only 2-4 knots. A raincloud was in front on the bow side. We start the starboard motor to reach the cloud. As we were motoring underneath the cloud the wind immediately picked up to be between 7-10 knots. Zack was in his element. The rest of the morning we sail zig zag following any possible cloud in close facinity. A salad bowl variety of fishing lures were following Vagabund and just as I was thinking there is absolutely no more space for another fishing rod Zack will improvise another gatched. At one stage we were trawling six rods. I was actually relieved when the fish did not strike as pandemonium will brake loose with cross lines, getting the lures out of the water, dropping the sails, starting the motors, turning the boat around and getting the fish under control.

With the engine running for half hour there was hot water. I could have a hot shower bath. With the hand shower you splash in a little bit of water with the " prop" in. When there was about 3 liters of water you close the water. Now I was tempting to wet myself with water in a similar fashion as a small “Mossie” in a puddle of water. I enjoy the hot water over my body and it reminded me when I was a kid how I enjoyed playing in a little bit of water. How things have changed and still remained the same.

The rest of the day we have force 1 and 2 winds. More difficult and challenging to keep the sails up but we drastically improved on our previous day progress. At sunset the wind pick unto force 3 and the captain was frilled when Vagabund was gliding through the water at more than half the wind speed. Doing 6.5 knots in a 10-knot wind. I was lectured in detail to master the art of apparent wind. It gave me a new appreciation for our friends back in Namibia that achieved a boat speed of more than double the actual wind speed.

 

3rd December Monday

The wind picked up to force 4 again and with our average dropping to 5.6 knots average did not look so bad on the screen. Everything is relative; it meant that at that speed we would be in Brazil before Christmas. 

Zack have in his schedule to daily study the manuals of the boat. I have scheduled myself to master my apple mac better everyday. A big perk is to have my instructor on board with me. Our captain quickly saw the trend and indicated that he is going to charge me for all the lessons in computer, camera, and sail trimming. Every day I learn so much from him. Always there if I needed info on small things. At home there was never time. I am enjoying having my husband for myself and although we are always together on the boat we have more than enough alone time.

Fishing at night.

4th December Tuesday

At 4h30 when my shift started it was pouring down with rain. We had to change our tack with the G2 due to wind change. Easier said than done. After Zack had his early morning gym session, tired and frustrated captain held a post mortem. “If apparent is suddenly high with wind increase and the sail is wet, we must known to start both engines and run hard down wind to reduce the apparent and take as much load of as possible.” Hope I will improve on my next effort. We were both wet and cold.

 

A nice day of sailing. It was overcast with rain the whole day. Zack set the  G2 to tack past the middle of the boat. This made a big improvement and we could run almost straight downwind.  The wind change from force 3 to periodically blow at force five for the rest of the day. We were on the move again.

Our fresh vegetables stock was dropping rapidly, with only some cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, and tomatoes and one cucumber left in the fridge. I use the fresh vegetables to make different salads instead of cooking (see under food). The fresh fruit appreciation level went through the roof especially when it is cut up and served as a snack with custard and jelly. Of course we still have potatoes, unions as well as frozen vegetables left.  It will take some careful planning for the rest of the trip!

Late afternoon one off the reels was screaming and we were doing 8 knots. A big fish on the line. Now we know what each one has to do to take the sail down. We operated like a well lubricated machine and in no time we turned the boat back. Zack offered me the opportunity to fight the fish retrieving the 400 m line back took quite a while. Close to the boat we could see it was a Long Bill Spearfish! I was thrilled to have another marlin and it increased our species count on bill fish. The marlin was very tired and Zack spend extra time in reviving her before letting her go.

 

It was a night of ships. Early evening a ship past us without AIS. We follow on the radar. Then a ship with AIS and in the morning hours another ship without identification. We were on alert till the sun rises. Were we in the Indian Ocean we would have been very worried. 

 

5th December Wednesday

It is overcast with the wind between force 4 and 5 and the wave height of 2.5 to 3 meters. With the G2 symmetrical in front we were doing well enjoying a nice sail trying to make up for lost time. This morning at 7 we turn the time back one hour. It felt like in the movies. You have that hour all over again. Do the same thing or alter for another outcome.  Wow!!!!

Zack had only two lures on the big 80W Tiagra reels with almost a km of 80lb line in the water. Just after midday the one reel started screaming the bonito smokers was the preferred meal. A big blue marlin was tailing walking behind the boat. The wind have picked up to 20 knots and Vagabund where surfing close to 10 knots. Like a fire drill we ticked of the sequence of steps to slow down Vagabund. Only this time everything was in fast forward and then we picked up a snag! The G2 sock was stuck and we forced it down through the winch. The real where continuously still screaming, for a short period the real stopped only to start screaming again with a renewed urgency. With the extra strain put onto the bow sprit the positioning line snap causing the one end of the bowsprit to drop into the water. The G2 was deployed again and the extra sheet from the windward bow was tighten up to take the load of the bowsprit sheet. Zack was exhausted. The real was quite. Great was the disappointment when we saw a turned rod and real with roughly 100m line still left on the real.

 

We still had to fix the bowsprit. It was an operation to bring her up again and fasten a new safety line. First Zack was lying on his stomach halfway over the yacht with me sitting on his ankles so that he don’t fall overboard. The tighten windward sheet of the G2 was shaving through on the bow chair and as the bowsprit sheets where already released to picked up the end of the bowsprit from the water we had to made a plan with the shaving. We ended up using the bait board with the one hand and helping with the other hand to get the bowsprit back up. My knees were trembling and I forced myself to stay calm. Eventually the bowsprit was tied again. We retrieved to the saloon exhausted. It took a while for us to recover our wits. Zack made a dry comment “that marlin sorted us out”. He took out the other lure to prevent another exhausted exercise and decided no fishing till the G2 can be sorted out.

After a few hours I got myself going again with my Sushi book and made California rolls inside out. Used the last of our cucumber. Fresh vegetables and fruit are now very low. 

 

6th December Thursday

A rough night of raining and with every cloud squalls coming through. Have to be constant at the helm to be ready to change course with the wind change. We were doing good time but hard work of sailing. 

The first time I used my washing machine. 15 min quick wash that only took 30 l of water and against 800 W. I am not going to do any hand washing any more. I have a wonder machine.

7th December Friday

A lazy morning. Today I put our duvet away. It was something I was looking forward to and now it was!!!! Summer! During the evenings it was hot enough and we don’t wear jackets any more. Zack was only dressing in swimming clothes every day. The water temperature is 27 degrees. 

After lunch the wind has dropped down a little bid. We decided to take down the G2 and change to tack with the screecher and main. The G2 sock was turned at the head of the sail making it vary difficult to pull the sock over the sail. We struggled from 14h00 and only managed to set sail with the screecher at 19h00.

We have to fix the G2 before we could use her again. 

8th December Saturday

It is now more than 12 days on the water from we left St Helena. We are getting closer to the most Eastern Island under Brazilian jurisdiction. It was late in the afternoon and we decided to take the main down to slow down, as we do not want to approach the Island in the dark.

I was sleeping for about the whole day. Start with antibiotics after consulting the medical guide. Middle ear infection. Hope it is going to clear soon.

The wind direction has changed from East to North East to North. We expect the NE for most of our remaining trip.

9th December Sunday

With the break of day the island Ihas Martin Vaz was visible in a distance. It consists of a group of four islands forming the outermost features of a series of seamounts and islands extending 620 miles East of the Brazilian mainland.

 

Ihas Martin Vaz islets are volcanic in origin, generally steep and rocky, with shoals and isolated submerged rocks surrounding them. The four islets are Ilha do Norte (flat rock), Ilha Martin Vaz ( big islet which is rocky and steep ricing to an irregular plateau of sparse tussock grass), Inholta Angula ( flat circular rock, 60 m in height with sharp pinnacle) and Ilha do Sol ( rocky pinnacle).

 

Our navigational maps warned us that the Southern part of the Island was still uncharted and the accuracy of the maps was not good. We decided to stay close to the Northern edge.

 

From Ilhas Martin Vaz the next island Ilha de Trinidade was visible (26 nm).

The water depth varied from 1000m to 29 m and back to thousands of meters in vary short distances. There was a lot of fish activity on the sounder. The capability of the sounder to read more than 1500m came in handy. The bottom profile was fascinating with near vertical profiles and stocks of activity.

Before we knew it we where over the submerged pinnacle at 29m and the water depth drastically increased to 60m again.

Zack start to jig and with the first time going down caught a yellow fin tuna. He used the tuna for live bait. Turned the boat around and slow troll back to the pinnacle. At the crawling speed the 400g jig produced the goods almost every time. Tuna, kingfish, bottom fish and bitten of. Re-load and kingfish, bottom fish, something that smokes the Torsa with its 80lb braid. It just kept on coming. It became a question of how much fruit can Zack eat? He is in fish paradise! First the hunger for a decent fish, then the hunger for specie count, then just the thrill and then just still the thrill… All the time he is fighting exhaustion, as jigging is the gym of fishing. I can only conclude I have a very fit husband with a massive appetite for fishing. The fish even started to follow the jig to the surface and as we where passing the pinnacle one could see the bottom on 30m of water. The rate of retrieval has drastically reduced but the fish were still attacking the jig with a vengeance.

 

As the appetite was fading with the jig and the intervals became longer with more refreshments paradise turned into fishing heaven as the big 80lb Tiagra started to pick up speed. Zack increased the drag gradually and wait for the circle hook to set. The fight was on! 15min later a monster fish surfaced behind the boat. The biggest barracuda I have ever seen. Zack managed to gaffe the fish in the mouth and after some nice shots and pausing he revived the fish and released it to rein over the reef for another day as the apex predator.

 

Martin Vas: The best fishing grounds encountered till date. May there be many more like this.

The desert topped the appetite and our captain exhausted declared this is enough for one day. We set sail for Ilha de Trinidade. The waves were from the front and we were sailing close reach. Very bumpy ride and a struggle to keep everything on the table with lunch. The one after the other squall pas through and visibility was limited to a few hundred meters from time to time.

 

Within 50 m water depth contour around Ilha de Trinidade is prohibited except for Brazilian naval vessels. On the NE coast of the island there is a military garrison. The naval vessel was lying on anchor in front of the Island. We tried several times to make contact without success.

 

When we were about 3 nm from the base the rain cleared up and we could see the Navy ship clearly on anchor. As we got closer the radio got active. It was a long attempted conversation without saying much but repeating ourselves and then spelling it out. Zack even had to spell his surname three times before they acknowledge. Fortunately a third voice appeared and acted as a translator. By this time we have passed the Navy ship and where heading for the Northern point of the island.

 

We do not know what impact our sudden appearance has made to there navy but as we where approaching the Northern tip of the island the Navy ship lifted its anchor followed us for a few hundred meters and then turned back. We where relieved the translator cleared any possible misunderstanding or confusion. We think we have given them quite an exercise for a lazy Sunday afternoon.

We started the last stretch of our voyage over the Atlantic Ocean. From we have left Cape Town we have already done 3723 nm and we have about 830 nm to Rio de Janeiro. We are already on 80% of the mileage to be done. The last 20% lie ahead of us.

 

 

 

 

 

St Helena

23rd November Friday

A few short pointers about St Helena

• The island was formed an estimated 14 million years ago, after a violent volcano erupted under the sea.
• The island was discovered on 21 May 1502 by a Spanish navigator in the service of Portugal. They decided to name this island… St Helena, because it was the birthday of Constantine’s mother Helena on the 21 May.
• The Island is a British domain with its own Governor.
• Historically the town had to be protected from attacks from the sea. This was done by building castles with thick surrounding walls. The top of the hills were also fortified.
• St Helena’s 5000 inhabitants are called ‘Saints’, their rainbow mix of colors and race reflecting the island’s chequered history. (did not expect to talk so soon to saints – vary friendly people)
• The entrance to town was through an archway that leads to the main square. Above the entrance is the English East India Company Coat of Arms and on the exit the Wire bird. The town has the most beautiful buildings on both sides of the narrow road winding up the valley.

 

• The RMS St Helena is a cargo ship linking St Helena and Ascension Island with Cape Town. The ship carry cargo, passengers and even the od sailing yachts as sailing back from St Helena to Cape Town is only possible by following the trades to Brazil, turn South along the coast of South America and turning East again in the roller coaster roaring forties around the mid Atlantic high.

 

• The island is located in the middle of the trade winds. The most regular visitors are cruising yachts, which stop here on their way from South Africa to Brazil, the Caribbean or Europe.
• It is always a good feeling to arrive in a place where visiting sailors are not only welcome, but their presence makes a visible contribution to the local economy. We will be two of the more or less 1000 tourists visiting this remote island per year! Having a gross 0,2% impact on their annual tourist influx.

Arriving on the Island:

With a quick customs visit on Vagabund we were legally allowed to set foot on land, we call the ferry to pick us up at  £1.50 per person return trip. You open an account that has to be settled the day of your depart.

 

With a huge bag of accumulated washing we set out in Santa Clause style to explore Jamestown.  A friendly elderly man greeted us with a big smile. He knew inevitably that we would become his clients. Robert showed us his raceme as a tour guide and after agreeing with Zack on a reduced rate and a free lift to town we had a date for an island tour on Monday. The taxi named “Mom’s taxi” is nothing more than a bakkie with a canvas frame with two drop down seats on each side.

 

As we where speeding up the hill it seemed like we where at a tennis match with our head movement being synchronized with each new observation made. The bakkie’s movement was far too quick. It felt like watching a movie in fast-forward. The only comfort: Tomorrow is another day.  Then I start to realize that although Jamestown is special we have been to long on the sea and having an inflated hunger for people and things on land.

 

As we stroll down from the Laundromat towards the harbor we still sampled every shop by just licking the candy and putting it back.

 

We where still exhausted from the crossing schedule and decided to take an afternoon nap after a good meal at Ann’s place. The nap turned into a deep cycle re-charge as we only woke up the next morning.

 

The next couple of days we did settle in and shopped at almost every shop in town. The shop stock mainly South African products at a much higher inflated price. For some reason on island freshly baked bread is always in bigger demand than the supply. It always ended up with somebody simply just do not get bread. On one of our days we where the ones – without bread. One suddenly realize that what is a given certainty in a particular environment can be a scarcity in others and can very quickly have a change in behavior pattern to obtain.

 

The bank of St Helena is the only bank on the island. They exchange banknotes in Sterling, US Dollars, Euro and South African Rands. 

There are no cellphone cards available. Wi-Fi is available at Anne’s Place and at the hotel. Ann's place is a restaurant in the beautiful gardens of Castle gardens. It is a family business that was started by Ann in 1978 and Jane who worked for her since she was a young girl and became her daughter in law, is now running Ann’s Place. The third generation with Jane's daughter now as young girl is helping her mother. On the wall with other memories by yachties, there is a sketch done by the van Niekerk's in 2010 when they were staying ion the island for three weeks. It is also a maverick yacht with the name Catlyn.

 

On the island you get the beautiful White Tern that is locally called Fairy Tern. They are white dove like birds that roam the cliffs, trees and forests. This is the only seabird to nest both inland and on the offshore islands. We have seen them in the trees of Castle Garden and on the cliffs.

 

On Sunday we attend the service in St James Church. The oldest Anglican Church South of the Equator. It was build in 1659 and their first chaplain in 1671. The church build in 1774 still stands although it has been altered during its life. It was a privilege to worship with saints in there church. Christianity and the Baha'i faith are presented on the island with various denominations. 

 

On Monday we went early into James Town to meet our tour guide, Robert with Moms Taxi.

 

Most roads are single lanes and they drive in the middle of the road, passing on the left. The rule is, uphill vehicles may pass first, and if you going down, you have to find a spot wide enough to wait. We were driving on narrow roads with sharp bends, Robert just hooted to scare or warn on coming vehicles. Robert was a retired bus driver with excellent driving skills. 

 

Apart from Cook, Darwin and many others in 1815 St Helena received its most famous visitor, when Napoleon Bonaparte was brought here as a prisoner until his death in 1821. We stopped at the first residence, Briars Pavilion, of Napoleon, where he stayed for 7 weeks as a guest after being exiled and went off to the beautiful Longwood House. You could smell the moldiness of the rooms that made people think that he died of arsenic poisoning. We stood in the very room where he spends the last days before he died.

 

We where surprised to even find a very basic 9 hole Golf course on the Island.

 

The island is due for big changes as an airport is constructed on the island.

• Basil Read is doing the contraction of the new airport. (Nice to know South Africans is competitive and like to take on big challenges.) Their offices is in a old school building with Deon de Jager the head of this big project. The airport will be on Prosperous Bay Plain and on Friday the biggest blast ever on St Helena took place. It took about 65000 cubic meters of rock out of the hillside. Currently 330 persons are working on the project of which 211 are saints employed by Basil Read. 
• It will be interesting to see how the character of the island is going to change. It is one of the most remote islands in the world. The people have involved their own unique culture and generic features.

 

We were surprised to see lush green fields roaming with cattle. The composition of the roads and landscape resembles something of Scotland. There are about 1500 cattle on the island and on Tuesday 6 are slaughtered to provide meet for all the saints. Due to health regulations the cows milk are not used and all the milk are imported from SA Long life full cream and skimmed as well as tin coronation milk.

 

Our taxi driver, Robert worked for many years in the flax mill used the flax to make different ropes. The mill is now closed and the flax is now used for cattle feeding. 

 

The first shipment of Boer Prisoners including General Cronje and his wife arrive 10 April 1900. During the next three years over 5000 prisoners were encamped at Deadwood plain and Broad Bottom. Today you see only green hills were the camp was.

 

We visited the Boer cemetery that contains the graves of the Boer prisoners who died during their captivity. Their ages vary from sixteen to sixty one.

 The Island is covered with lush vegetation and in some part of the Island big evergreen trees formed a natural roof, and the ferns followed their trunks up to the sky as we drive on narrow roads between the forests.

 We stopped at the Governor's House to meet with Jonathan.  The oldest living animal on the island and thought to be the oldest living example of his breed (Testudinipae cytodira). This big old turtle, 180 years old (169 in 2001) with a cataract because of old age, still enjoy the soft grass in front of the house.  

 

We also visited High Knoll Fort that was build to accommodate all the saints in case of an invasion. 

 

There are 3 primary schools on the island and one high school named Prince Andrew School. The British Government funded this school after Prince Andrew visited the island.  All the children attend high school from 11-15 years. Those who qualify attend another 3 years till 18. If you qualify then you have a bursary potential for Cambridge University in England. Last year five saint pupils qualify for further studies.

 

Jacobs ladder was build in 1829 as an inclined plane, which was used to haul manure up and goods down. It is 600 feet high stretching from Jamestown to the Ladder Hill and can be tempted by foot with its 700-1 steps the first step is buried under the road leading to the ladder.

 

Robert is a history lesion on wheels. Meeting Robert was a highlight in St Helena.

 

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Walvis Bay to Saint Helena

15 November Thursday

Early morning at 8h00 we did the last few things in town like pizza, petrol, emigration and handing back the car. We only had to clear out with emigrations. No flight plan, customs etc. was required.

We even managed to secure our allusive scramble egg and salmon breakfast at a cute restaurant on the waterfront. Breakfast is only served till 11h00 in the morning. This was the first time we managed to make it on time. One of their features is a vegetable garden in an old wooden boat.

Arrie saw us off at our dingy and we managed to pull up all 86 m of chain in no time to be on our way to refuel in the small craft harbour.  The price was R11-04 per liter. We filled up with 176 liters and paid R1954-08.

It was 13h00 as we say our own good bye to Walvis Bay by hoisting the screecher and setting the course to Pelican Point between al the anchored cargo ships waiting to enter the harbour. We sail past Pelican point with the light tower and the oil rig.

We selected our route to cross over Shackelton seamount on our way to St Helena.  We had to sail 1200 nm to our next stop. Our longest non-stop crossing till date. We managed to maintain a speed of 6,5 knots. We could have sailed much quicker but our speed was limited by the sea state. The sea state was about 3 meter swells with a fairly short period. The wave direction was on the bow port side (more uncomfortable than a following sea). At times it felt like we were in a washing machine. We only sailed with our headsail at nighttime to make sure that a sudden wind gust will not overpower us in the middle of the night.

Later that night the wave direction changed to our stern port side and with a SSE Force 6 wind we set the screecher that improved our SOG to over 8 knots.  It was a bumpy ride.

16th November Friday

After midnight Spray Eagle  (a Singapore cargo ship) was 10 nm away but on a direct collision course. As the stand on vessel we maintained our speed and course and was relieved to see them changing their course to steam pass our stern less than 2 nm. Thanks again to AIS that made us visible to them. 

We also managed to pick up a vessel less than 3,5 nm on our port side with a weak blip on the radar. The vessel position was confirmed by spotting its lights. No AIS identification with an occasional blip on the radar. The lights confirmed that it was a fishing vessel but it was not clear whether they had extended nets in the water.

The sea state improved during the night. We where maintaining a 7,8 knots in a force 5 SE.  Zack could not wait to start fishing again and although the conditions were far from perfect he set out a couple of lures in a very uneven sea. It was a skiing experiences for the fish once they where on the line. Despite the high boat speed Zack managed to catch a good size yellow tail just after breakfast. He released the fish.

The sea temperature has increased from 10ºC to 14ºC and the temperature outside has increased from 17ºC to 21ºC. A much more comfortable temperature. Wind was back to force 6.

About 14h00 the wind increased to force 7 and the sea state deteriorated further. We change course with +10ºT to have the wave direction more to our stern and reducing the apparent wind speed to be less than 25 knots. We also lock the propellers from free turning. The barometer was falling from 1015 to 1012 in less than 3 hours. We got worried and phoned our beloved weatherman. Michael came back shortly afterwards confirming that the weather will not further deteriorate.

We watched a movie and ate popcorn while sitting in the saloon and keep one eye on the plotter to make sure the apparent wind speed did not exceed 25 knots.

After sunset the wind gusts up to 33knots and the apparent wind was on the limits for the screecher. We were on force 7 but due to the sea state that could get further deteriorate we decided to take the screecher down. It was more difficult because it was already dark. We put the front deck light on and clip on with our harnesses. At 20h00 the headsail was up and we managed to slow Vagabund down to just over 7 knots in the wind of 26-32 knots. I was too tired to prepare dinner and both of us were not hungry. We ate bread and cup of soup.  

17th November Saturday

When we deployed the screecher we discovered a tear about 1 .5 m from the clew. We had to bring her down again and repair the sail. We drag the screecher in her bag into the saloon. When she was out of the bag it was a task to get the tear. Much easier to do a sail repair with the sewing machine than doing it by hand. 

18th November Sunday

Having time to focus on your current environment around you is a new experience to us. For the first time I do have time to experiment with new recipes as well as the perfect subject to try all the new stuff on. Eat now and only disproof when the scoring is done after the meal.

Every afternoon at 16:00 UT (18:00 local SA time) we SMS our position to Michael but Zack will use the slightest of glitches excuses to then call him and have a short chat as well. Our weatherman will then use our position and sms our weather forecast 150 nm and 300 nm ahead. What a blessing: weather with love.

The sea life activity increased with the water temperature increase, we started to see flying fish and two squid were washed on to the deck and later on even a flying fish fly into the anchor locker.

The weather pattern repeated itself every day: The pressure drops late afternoon and the wind increase to 25-30 knots and gusting to 33 knots. Close to midnight the wind starts dropping down. During the first part of the day the barometric pressure increased to 1015 mBar with force 4 winds.

Even the fishing patterns started to repeat itself with little or no fishing activity till late afternoon when the wind started to pick up again.

All pandemonium broke loose when one of the rods started screaming with a newly found intensity. Zack has a saying “ek ken moeilikheid as ek dit sien en hierdie is moeilikheid”

The wind has already picked up to 28 knots and the screecher were running close to its limits. Vagabund was sailing more than 9 knots and surfing every once in while over 12 knots.  The fish just kept on spooling line of the real, the drag was way past its strike drag and it seemed like the fish did like the idea of us using it to slow down Vagabund. Our captain of the boat was so taken up with the action that he forgot that he did not had a crew of twenty men ready to execute his commands. The tasks just kept on coming, I filtered most and tried to prioritized them but he did not found it funny when I interrupted him by asking which one he wants me to do first. Some may call it command to multi task the impossible I call it fish fever.

We managed to turn Vagabund back into the wind and reduced the boat speed to 5 knots it was still to fast. Zack managed to get some line back on the reel.  With the change in direction we where almost sailing back to the fish. He brought the fish close to the boat but did not believe me when I told him it was a billfish. He so strongly desired a yellow fin tuna that he tried to convinced me that it was the fin of a big yellow fin. The moment of controlling the fight was short lived as we quickly overshoot the perfect fighting angle. But it almost seemed like the fish just came to size us up and decided it does not want to stay and took of with a vengeance. The rod was back in the holder and we decided to bring the screecher down to get more control over the fight.

At this time I was still only half way through all my initial commands but it felt like the fever was under control. After another 15 minutes the fish was close to the boat. I was standing ready with the gaff. Zack took the leader and saw it was a short bill. Our supper immediately turned into an environmental protection program. We did not gaff her but let her go. Our first billfish on Vagabund for 2012.

We caught 5 billfishes on Vagabund in 2011 that was of 4 different species.  Zack has caught a Blue marlin and now a short bill. I am very proud of him. 

19th November Monday

With everyday only blue water around you, you lost track of time. By writing in the logbook the dates and time we track what day and date it was. On the water the days looks exactly the same. Thursday and Saturday is only spelled differently. It is now three weeks since we have left home. 

What do I miss the most? 

Talking to my dearest daughter Zandia. We are so close and I miss hearing your voice. You are a living testimony of what you teaches and  do. Teaches woman of Jesus being there First Love. I love being part of your dreams. Being a princess God created you to be. A husband Andre that adores you.  To follow you and Andre where you are as a couple, touches so many peoples hearts by your ministry in Eksderde. We are excited to see what path God is leading you as a couple on.

I miss the voice of my son Michael and his dearest wife Cathri that is like a daughter to me. The times we spend together. A special bond between mother and son. I miss your hugs. We are so proud of you being part of the Tecroveer team (third generation) that sustains the legacy. I am looking  forward to have you both with us over Christmas ( the first time) Wanting to see what you have done with your home. Now only be able to see in March. Please bring photos!!!! Every time the G2 is up with Tecroveer logo and our legacy then we missed all the faces of the team at Tecroveer: Piet, Izak, Michael, Cobus…etc. Everybody is special to us.

I miss only to be able to drop in and talk to my mother. Always with a hug and smile. Never complaining. Such an inspiration. Miss you Moeks. My mother in law that is also like a mother. Always have my favorite ginger cookies in a jar specially for me. Missing our tea, cookies and small talk in the sitting room with the white leather chairs.

I miss you Suzette. Not only to be able to share the small things but you are so part of my live by being my personal assistant.  I miss to be able to walk to the other part of the house and to find you always there. Planning, working, laughing together, even baking together. You are more than a friend to me.

I miss our families. Else’s, McCarthy's, Cronje's etc. All the support and always only a telephone call away. The  special times  talking to you Louise. Scyping with Hendrik and Cornelia. Sharing our lives and times together. Playing golf with Izak and Heleen.  I miss our friends. Rudy, Hester, Louis and Kobie, the time spend Friday evenings, laughing and eating together. Francois and Carol our sailing buddies, that understood our hearts and dream. Nanna my prayer companion. Missing sharing with you. Love you lots.

I miss my corner bath and warm water. I miss my garden and the hearing of the birds every morning. I miss my dresses. I miss having my hair done every week.  Candice only you can do it so perfect. Here on the sea my hair follows their own style. I miss my monthly pampering with you Annemarie. A session refreshing for my body and soul. Being in your company where we minister to each other. 

What is the purpose of this time on the water for so many days and days:

I believe my purpose in life is serving God. To love My Fist Love Jesus Christ. My purpose second is to support and love my husband and then our kids. For so many years I was working part time and was always there. Part of the growing years of our children. Watching every netball, hockey and foot ball game. After they left home I started full time with the laboratory and after hard work of five year it was the first accredited laboratory in North West. Long hours every day with so little time for Bible study, special time with Zack.  My dream and purpose was fading away. From April 2010 I was walking a path of faith with so many choices. I was taught so many things. I was released in August as director of both companies and could again follow my dream....

If this many hours on the sea purpose is to give me time to write down what I have learned, it was worth while. On the web under inspirational you will find where I am going to share my journey of faith. During my night shift it gives me time alone time with my Creator. Time to listen to His voice... Time to worship... 

Once we passed the 20 deg South latitude we were spoilt with calmer water and wind. We were at the halfway mark to St Helena. Today for the first time it is what we expected the crossing would be. Wave heights of 2.2 m and wind 17-23 knots. We could for the first time from Walvis put up the G2. Water a deep blue color and temperature about 23ºC. Zack was preparing new lures with a knot made with a special tool that was given as a gift by Francois.

Just before sunset the elusive yellow fins made their appearance.  Three of the five reels where running simultaneously. This made our previous billfish ordeal looked like a kinder garden exercise. Our captain thought he has expanded his crew to 40. I just did what I managed to have learned out of previous ordeal. Zack and myself each took a real to try and control the situation. The course changes only worsened the situation as our apparent wind speed jumped through the roof causing us to accelerate to 12,5 knots. We lost both the tuna.

In our postmortem we now know that the only way to slow down the G2 is to drop the apparent wind speed to as low as possible by turning straight down wind and if you want to further reduce your speed you then to simply have to lower the sail. We have decided not to target bigger fish with the G2 flying.

We settled in for the night by sailing only with the headsail. For the first time from Walvis we could enjoy a sundowner on the bow and watch the sun go under. Zack caught a smaller tuna. Just big enough to use for sushi.

20th November Tuesday

After a peaceful night with only force 4 following wind we change sail back to the G2 again. Immediately our boat speed increased to almost half the wind speed.

By setting the tack of the G2 between the bow sprit and port side bow we managed to sail straight downwind with still enough play on a convertible fast downwind run.  What a joy to be rid of the mainsail jibe protectors.

The Greenwich line came up much quicker and by 23h05 we crossed from East to West into the new time zone. “I could not help myself thinking we were round about in 2080 and were somewhere in deep space in our spaceship exploring the universe……”

21st November Wednesday

Sea state calm with 2,2 m wave height and wind 12- 17 knots on a run for the whole day. This was sailing as I have imagined it. It was a lazy day with doing different chores at a lame pace. The rest of the day I spend on doing my nails for the first time. If I may say so I was quite pleased with the results. 

I tried a new recipe and received a 4 star from Zack to be used as a dish that is not the main meal.

22nd November Thursday

We could see the rain on the radar system. Our first rain from Cape Town. We were blessed with a perfect morning with the sun shining and the water a deep blue color. With the rain still wet on the yacht Vagabund could be washed.  We convertibly cruised with the G2 and made good time.

We had to manage our time of arrival at Saint Helena. Zack did not want to approach the island during night time. Our Navionics and Garmin maps had vary little detail on the Island and we had to use our map charts.

Late afternoon we have taken the G2 down and were going with the headsail at half the speed. The water temperature were up to 18ºC. Time for fishing again. Zack took out all the stops and introduced the full fishing Monty with color, size and teaser variations. The stage where set.

After a beautiful sunset we were busy settling in for the last night before landfall.

Three reels went off simultaneously, lines crossed and by the tone in the reels we knew this was it. Despite our postmortem discussions our captain made his appearance again. There was a slight improvement as he was now only commanding ten of his best crew simultaneously. Turning the yacht into the wind, start the motors, haul out the teasers, get the gaff, sort out the crossed lines and by the way catch a tuna on the other rod while you where at it was only part of my job description. I forgot to ad “and it was pitch dark outside” Fortunately the second and third tuna relieved me of some of my chores by getting unhooked.

Zack managed to tame the fish by turn the tuna’s head and reeled her in. A beautiful 20 kg yellow fin tuna. A tick off on Zack’s bucket list and a freezer filled up with delicious tuna steaks.

23rd November Friday

St Helena will be our first foreign island on our voyage. Feels like a kid waiting for his birthday party.

At 6h00 Saint Helena were showing strongly on our radar.  We were still about 18 nm out and still struggled to see the island through the cloud cover.

We decided to put up the screecher to improve our boat speed. A friendly female voice with a strong British accent appeared over the VHF radio it was St Helena Radio enquiring whether we will be visiting James Bay in order to prepare for our arrival.

As we approached landfall the vertical cliffs became apparent. The island rose up from thousands of meters from the seabed to over 800m above sea level. There where only one place where landfall was possible and that is in James Bay. By coming closer into James Bay massive rocks is covering the steep hills. James Town was lying between two majestic mountains.

On arriving contact was made with Port control on VHF 14. We where instructed to anchor on the Eastern side as the existing yacht moorings was removed. The water was 25m deep and we are glad for the change to 100m chain and 33kg rocna anchor. Shortly after our settling in we where boarded by the port control and customs.

A party of 3 officials that consists of the Port control manager as well as 2 officials from customs boarded Vagabund. Our customs inspection turned more into an information session and we had an enjoyable session with the friendly saints of Saint Helena. We paid our anchorage fees of £35 and further landing fees for visiting St Helena of £14 per person. This was valid for up to 10 days.

All visitors must be covered by medical insurance, proof of which, must be produced on arrival at immigration, regardless of your length of stay. On arrival we have to flown a yellow flag (the signal flag “Q” in the International Code of Signals) at all times between the entry by your yacht into the limits of the port and the making of the report to customs. After the visit the yellow flag could be lowered and we were welcome to set foot on land.

An island with Atlantic facing cliffs, inland pastures, rolling hills, ancient historical fortifications and a quite little town with their “saints” to be explored!!!!