Bahamas: Georgetown Exuma

24 Febr to 17^th March 2017

Early the morning of 24^th February we arrived at Georgetown after a passage of 240nm from Acklins. It took us 45hours after sitting out bad weather on the windward of Long Island.

We anchored closely to Rat Catcher with Peace & Plenty Hotel visible from our anchorage.

After settling in we were invited for Lobster muffins on Rat Catcher.  It was a happy morning spending on catch up that happened the previous few months.

A group of us (Rat Catcher, Vagabund and Joda) walked the trail over to the windward side of Stocking Island and on the ridge back to Chat’n Chill beach.

Looking back at the windward beach of Stocking Island

The reef on the end of the beach

On the top of the ridge overlooking Exuma Sound

 Allison and Andre having some fun on a swing while we rested for a while

I found a new friend in Danielle.

After the long walk we enjoyed a swim in the water before the last stretch to Chat’n Chill beach.

On Flip Flop Beach we held another successful braai with Andre and Allison showing the South African “BBQ”.

Allison, Magda, Brenda and Christol.

3^rd March

Golf on the beach

Fun 9 holes of golf at Monument Beach, Stocking Island, Exumas, Bahamas

You play with only one club till you get the ball on the "green".

The 9th hole. You must chip your ball into the designated green (marked with moat), then you may stand where your ball lies inside the moat, and "hand toss" your ball into the crate to complete the hole. Each toss count as a stroke as well.

The 6th hole. Next to the water is the green with a group of players on the next tee.

The men play from the tees between the coconuts and the woman from the conch shells.

A braai day was held on Flip Flop Beach where the SA boats showed the yanks to cook some meat.

Bahamas: Eleuthera

17^th March to 21st March 2017

“Eleuthera is long and slender with the narrowest point located at the Glass Window Bridge where the island is 100 feet wide.  Over 100 miles long the average width is less than two miles so you are never far from the beach.

According to the latest available information, the population of Eleuthera is approximately 10,000.

Eleuthera (pronounced e-loo-ther-uh) was the first permanent settlement in The Bahamas, founded in 1648. A search for religious freedom drew the Eleutherian Adventurers from Bermuda here, to the birthplace of The Bahamas. The island they discovered and colonized still bears the name Eleuthera — Greek for “freedom” but he locals call it Cigatoo.

The name Eleuthera (“freedom”) is a fitting name for a Caribbean island that’s free from crowds or cruise ships or casinos. Eleuthera moves at a slower pace than most people are accustomed to.

These adventurers found an island of white and pink sand beaches framed by Casuarina trees, high rolling green hills, sea-to-sea views, dramatic cliffs; and sheltered coves.”

We left Georgetown at about 17h30 for an overnight sail to Eleuthera. Using the small weather window of wind on our beam before it turns north.

Arriving at first light at Davis Channel and dropping anchor at about midday at Govenors Harbour.

Lunch was at Bacchus Fine Food. A deli on our way to a pink beach.

On the beach we enjoyed a cool drink from our backpack. The weather was too cold for a swim.

Early the next morning we set motored for Alabaster Bay with the wind on our nose. Anchoring to the left of First Love. The evening was spending on Vagabund with Gill and Sharlene.

Monday morning early we left for the top of Eleuthera at the Glass Window. Anchoring at Glass Window Bridge.

“This man made bridge took the place of what was once an impressive rock arch, destroyed by a raging hurricane. The concrete replacement bridge has been battered by turbulent storms as well. Glass Window is a prime spot for viewing the striking contrast of the deep blue Atlantic Ocean on one side and the gentle turquoise waters of Exuma Sound on the other.”

The Glass Window from the inside with calm turquoise water.

On the Atlantic side the water was a deep blue colour and with the wind blowing at 20knots the waves were rolling in. We were glad to be anchored in calm waters and not exposed to the big waves the Atlantic Ocean.

Queen’s Baths are natural pools on the Atlantic side of Eleuthera about 1 km south of Glass Window Bridge. The power of huge waves crashing against the rocks was spectacular.

Zack enjoyed a dip in one of the pools.

Houses on the cliffs with winding stairs into the sea. Their own aquarium on their doorstep.

With our kayak towed behind the dinghy we went for snorkeling just north of The Cove.

Snorkeling in crystal clear water.

Arriving at Current Cut at slack tide.

Bahama Islands: Spanish Wells

21^st to 27^th March 2017

We came to Spanish Wells to replace a damaged sail drive seal and to do our antifouling. 

 “Spanish Wells is a quaint village and is currently facilitating the biggest commercial lobster fishing in the Bahamas. It is a prosperous fishing village and the locals are renowned for their seamanship.  Most of the residents are direct descendants of the original Eleutheran Adventurers and British Loyalists.

The first colonists were the Eleutheran adventurers from Bermuda (intending to be some of the first settlers of Eleuthera), who suffered shipwreck on a reef, known as the "Devil's Backbone" off Eleuthera in 1647. After living in a cave known as "Preacher's Cave" on Eleuthera, they ended up at Spanish Wells. Later, groups of settlers were Crown loyalists, who left the United States after the American Revolutionary War. Historically, the island was used as a last stop for Spanish ships returning to Europe, where these ships refilled their water supply from wells created for this purpose - thus the English name of the settlement: Spanish Wells.”

Around the channel is all the jetties and boatyard. A good choice to work on your boat and enjoy the scenery.

We came to Spanish Wells to replace a damaged sail drive seal and to do our antifouling.  At R&B Boatyard Robert and his team hauled Vagabund out with their Synchro lift (Catamarans up to 70ft LOA, up to 40 tons and up to 28ft beam).

Vagabund were hauled, pressure washed, lightly sanded and then painted with 2-3 coats of Sea Hawk 44 Plus Harder (an antifouling paint with copper and tin additives). Our previous antifouling was done in Trinidat three years ago.  They do a brisk business and want you as soon as possible back in the water. After a full wax on hulls, bottom and top rub down lady Vagabund was almost bragging showing off her well defined lines to the passers by.

Zack is smiling from ear to ear. The sail drive seal is replaced and now we can run on two motors again.

The timing of the hauling out worked well out with the weather. We did not mind being on the land while the next cold front passed by. On one of the jetties the grounded flock were sitting out the cold front.

On Sunday we visited the People’s Church. The gathering consisted of a well spread age variation. An electric piano, drums, guitars and singers complimented the worshipping.  The service was a blessing and we enjoyed communion with the locals.

A reservation for lunch at Shipyard Point restaurant. We had a nice lunch here with a beautiful view. Lovely breeze, lovely spot on the water, lovely view of all the seabirds, lovely cold chardonnay, and LOVELY  ribs with salad and grilled asparagus. YUMMY!!

With the rising tide on Sunday afternoon Zack took me bone fishing. Zack explored the flats earlier in the week and this specific spot produced a number of fish in a short time. Right tide, right fly, right place and the best guide = I managed to catch my first bonefish!

Vagabund ready to splash with high tide Monday morning and then looking for warmer weather in the Southern Bahama islands where the coconut oil in the cupboard will again be an liquid!